Day 66 A.T. Miles: 854.0
Wow. Where to begin? It has been almost a month since I've lasted posted an update. To those of you who thought I may have dropped off, fear no more! I have just been having a stretch of very bad internet luck. I'll spare you the details and get down to business.
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I hiked out of Hot Springs, NC on March 21 after recovering from a bout of stomach something-or-other. Face, Guido, and J.T. Hill pushed on the day before, so it was just me and Delaware Dave hiking together for a while. At this point I began to gradually up my daily mileage bit by bit, making 15's about the average. On the second day out of Hot Springs, we came across a sign inviting us to the home of Hercules and Fal, two past thru-hikers, for some wonderful trail magic: hot coffee, Belgian waffles, pork stew, and banana splits. On the third day out we caught up with White Wolf and Jellypants and hiked with them into Erwin, TN. On the 24th I did my first 20-plus-mile day, aided by my new secret weapon: the 6th packet of oatmeal for breakfast. I felt like I had a rocket on my back for the first half of the day. On the 25th we did a 6.3-mile nero into Erwin where we stayed at Uncle Johnny's Hostel (the site of my last blog update). We caught up with Face, Guido, and J.T., who were taking a zero there. From my journal entry for that day: "I'm starting to crave the simplicity of the trail every time I go to town. Town days are largely spent doing chores (resupply, bathing, laundry, repacking, etc.). When I go to town I can't wait to eat, but as soon as I'm full I'm ready to leave again for a place where life is simpler. It's going to be hard to re-enter civilization after I'm finished."
On March 26, the whole gang (Face, Guido, J.T., White Wolf, Jellypants, and I) left Erwin in the late morning. Delaware Dave decided to stay an extra day in town. Face and I were hungry for miles, so we immediately began to push farther each day. Guido and J.T. wanted to go slower, and we haven't seen them since. Last word on the trail that we heard was that they made it to Damascus, VA. For the next several days we had very cold weather with daytime hiking temperatures in the mid-20s. In this weather, otherwise simple chores become increasingly complicated (such as retrieving your bear bag, for example, when the cord has frozen to the tree). On the 30th we spent the night at Kincora Hostel with Jellypants, White Wolf, Girl with Four Dogs (yes, she is hiking with four dogs), Granny Rocket, Trainwreck, and Two Medicine. I washed clothes for the first time since Hot Springs (after hiking 140 miles in the same pair of socks). Face and I left the next morning with White Wolf, but Jelly stayed back to zero. We continued to hike in cold, snowy, and rainy weather. In the end, we saw much more nasty weather than good weather in North Carolina and Tennessee. April greeted us with fresh snow and more daytime temps in the low 20s. In that kind of weather, just stopping for breaks becomes painful. I ended up taking my food breaks standing up with my pack on. A lot of hikers talk about "walking with spring" on their way north, but so far it feels like we have been walking with winter instead. On April 2, day 42 of the trip, Face and I made it to our fourth state: VIRGINIA!!! We did a surprisingly quick 18.5 miles into Damascus and zeroed there the next day. The zero felt good after doing 120 miles in seven days, our best average up to that point.
Face and I had packages waiting in Bland, 120 trail miles north. We left Damascus on Monday the 4th, and we wanted to push ourselves to try to get there before the post office closed for the weekend (it was open for two hours on Saturday morning), so we set ourselves a goal: 120 miles in five days. That five-day period has since become known as "The Bland Death March." On the second day out, we crossed Mount Rogers and the open and exposed Grayson Highlands in the worst weather of the entire trip: heavy snow and sleet, daytime temperatures in the lower 20s, and sustained winds of perhaps seventy miles-per-hour. On the top of Whitetop Mountain (a bald, no less), the wind was so strong that the snow felt like a sandblaster and it was literally impossible to stay on the narrow trail. The wind would change directions and hit you in the face and it would literally take your breath away. Of course, I wanted to get my camera out to document this insanity, but at that point my only concern was safety, and the only safe thing to do in those conditions was to keep moving and get to lower elevation. I can't even venture as guess as to how cold the wind chill was. It took over eleven hours to do our 23 miles that day. Fortunately, for the rest of the Death March we had great weather.
The difficult terrain and consecutive high-mileage days thoroughly exhausted us by the time we reached Bland, but we did manage to make it in time to visit the post office on the morning of the 9th (though we had to wake up at 5:15 and do a bit of hiking in the dark in order to make it). At the post office, a trail angel named Frances approached us and invited us to her home. She fed us breakfast, let us shower, do our laundry, and then fed us lunch before giving us a ride back to the trail. Trail magic doesn't get much better than that, and it came at the perfect time.
After our exhausting march to Bland, Face and I took the next several days easy, averaging perhaps 14-15 miles per day. We took a nero in Pearisburg (mile 627.2) before resuming our natural pace, which has settled into consistent 17-22-mile days. Spam, who Face and I met briefly in Damascus, caught up with us a few days north of Pearisburg, and we hiked as a trio until we reached Daleville where we split a motel room for the night.
Ever since Daleville we have been cruising, doing over twenty miles every day except for a resupply day in Glasgow. We have about 160 miles of trail left before we reach Harper's Ferry, WV, the psychological - if not exactly geographical - halfway point of the trip.
Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Friday, March 25, 2011
On-Trail Update No. 3
Day: 34 A.T. Miles: 339.9
Howdy, everyone. I'm chilling at Uncle Johnny's Hostel in Erwin, Tennessee, enjoying a pint-sized PBR and some good R&R. Since I have been unable to keep up-to-date with my journal entries, and because I don't think that will be improving anytime soon, I have decided to change up the format of my posts a bit. Instead of posting an entry for each day, I will instead be summarizing different sections of the trail in each post. I will highlight what I think is the interesting information - good views, significant weather patterns, people, life on the trail - while omitting all the redundant information (my feet hurt, I climbed lots of mountains today, etc.). This way, I might be able to post updates more frequently (keyword: might) and I can refrain from spending three hours of each nero or zero sitting at a library computer. Plus, I think most readers will find the new format easier to read and more entertaining. Since I left off in the middle of the Smokies, I will finish that segment with daily journals, and I will begin posting in the new format upon my exit (or escape) from the national park. Also, a word about pictures: after failing repeatedly to find a computer that is compatible with my camera (probably since I am a Mac user), I decided to mail my full memory card home to my parents who have agreed to upload my pictures to my Flikr account (thanks, Mom!). Once they are on Flikr, I should be able to post pictures to the blog without difficulty.
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3/15/11 Day 24 Miles: 12.9
Weather and trail conditions VERY nasty for the first half of the day. Rain, snow, sleet, and high winds. Cold, but temperatures just above freezing so the trail was an ankle-deep slushy, muddy river. After lunch the precipitation stopped, the trail was a bit drier, and we dropped in elevation enough to get out of most of the snow. Still not sure how far Guido Blanco and J.T. Hill are behind us. Staying at Cosby Knob Shelter with Face, Delaware Dave, Treebeard, and Stormsong. Got a fire going. It feels nice after some of the nastiest weather of the trip. Leaving the Smokies tomorrow!!! It really is BEAUTIFUL here, but conditions on the trail have been rough, and it will be nice to get away from the crowds and snow and back onto some solid ground where we can push mileage. The Smokies have been a big landmark in the distance since the start of the trail. Now that they're almost done, one thing is looming in my mind: Virginia. Almost exactly halfway there. Heading into hostel tomorrow. Looking forward to some real food and dry socks (my feet have been soaking wet all day for six straight days). Honestly, I don't really care that much about taking a shower. I stopped caring about being dirty a while back. I just want food. Rationing food takes a lot of will power - most thru-hikers I have talked to agree that at any given time they could open their food bag and keep eating till there is nothing left. You really never stop being hungry out here. Have I mentioned that yet? I am HUNGRY!!!
3/16/11 Day 25 Miles: 10.4
Quick, easy day today. Did last 8 miles to Davenport Gap rd which marks the end of the 72 A.T. miles inside Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I am very happy to be out and check them off the list. We then continued 2.4 miles to Standing Bear Farm hiker hostel. Needed food after crossing the Smokies without resupply, plus I heard good things about the hostel. so I decided to stay the night and head back out in the morning. I am aiming to be in Hot Springs (where my bounce box is waiting) by early morning of the 19th (P.O. is open 8:30-10:30 AM on Saturday). I hope to nero and update the blog there if the library is open. At hostel: Face, Guido and Hill (did 14 + 18 milers to catch up), Treebeard, Stormsong, Delaware Dave, Cosmic John, Victus, Space Cowboy, and Young-Un (met the last three at a shelter a few nights ago). I feel like everyone is really starting to bond. We are even sharing food! Woah! This is a big deal for thru-hikers, who usually guard their food bags like a bear guards her cubs. Everyone has many of the same acquaintances and experiences. News is passed up and down the trail through fellow hikers, hostel operators, and shelter registers. Life on the trail is becoming more and more fun everyday. It is hard to find fresh produce/healthy food here. For dinner I ate a 9-piece chicken tenders meal, fries, a biscuit, a microwave chimichanga, a banana, a large bag of chips with Tabasco sauce, oreos with peanut butter, and a slice of pizza. I washed my socks on a traditional washboard. Picked up a copy of The Fellowship of the Ring at the free book exchange here; I'm looking forward to reading it for the first time in ten years.
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After staying the night at Standing Bear Farm, the whole group woke up early for a quick three-day hike into Hot Springs, where most of us were planning to take a nero. We started out the morning right: everyone pitched in some money for food, and Stormsong
The next day was much of the same - beautiful weather, beautiful hiking. I learned that instant grits are disgusting. We camped that night three miles outside of Hot Springs with the intent of reaching town early the next morning. That night was probably the worst twelve hour period of my entire life. I woke up at 12:30 in the morning with the most painful stomach cramps of my entire life. It felt like my entire abdomen was caught in an ever-tightening vise. Eventually the pain became so severe that I resorted to sticking my hand down my throat to induce vomiting. I did that twice in an hour and a half or so without relief before I began vomiting and dry heaving uncontrollably, which lasted for the rest of the night. To make things worse, the cramps were coupled with severe shifting hot and cold spells: within minutes, I went from burning hot to shivering cold and back again. Since I was vomiting so frequently and was too weak to keep crawling in and out of my tent repeatedly, I spent the majority of the night lying on the ground in the fetal position out in the woods next to a pile of my own puke. It was bad. And if that wasn't bad enough, it started raining on me while I was lying out in the woods. I wanted to wait until sunrise to head into town, but at 5:30 I couldn't wait any longer. Delaware Dave insisted on hiking with me into town, and he even carried a few of my heaviest items to make the hike easier. By the light of his headlamp and my micro LED that I held in my mouth (I had inconveniently left my headlamp in the shelter the previous night), we hiked slowly through the dark - me stopping when necessary to throw up - until we finally reached Hot Springs in the meager light of the early morning. I sat outside the medical clinic until it opened. They weren't sure exactly what was wrong, but they gave me two bags of IV fluids to replace what I had lost and a shot in the butt to keep me from vomiting. I stayed there until noon. At some point while I was at the clinic (the shot they gave me knocked me out pretty well), Victus, Space Cowboy, and Young-Un stopped by to see me. They had heard through the grapevine that I was sick and wanted to see how I was doing before hitting the trail that afternoon. This was quite touching to me, as we had only seen each other on two previous occasions. It was just one more example of the strong bond that thru-hikers share. We look out for each other. After leaving the clinic, I checked into the Sunnybank Inn, located in a beautiful historic Victorian house built in 1875. For my fellow musicologists out there: this was the very house in which Cecil Sharpe (in 1916) recorded over sixty songs sung by Mrs. Jane Gentry, many of which were included in his English Folk Songs of the Southern Appalachians. The shot and IV fluids helped immensely, and I continued to improve for the remainder of the day, but I decided to take an additional zero day in town to fully recover. Face, Guido, Hill, Treebeard, and Stormsong pushed on after one night in town, but Delaware Dave really enjoyed the Inn and decided to stick around for an extra night.
Howdy, everyone. I'm chilling at Uncle Johnny's Hostel in Erwin, Tennessee, enjoying a pint-sized PBR and some good R&R. Since I have been unable to keep up-to-date with my journal entries, and because I don't think that will be improving anytime soon, I have decided to change up the format of my posts a bit. Instead of posting an entry for each day, I will instead be summarizing different sections of the trail in each post. I will highlight what I think is the interesting information - good views, significant weather patterns, people, life on the trail - while omitting all the redundant information (my feet hurt, I climbed lots of mountains today, etc.). This way, I might be able to post updates more frequently (keyword: might) and I can refrain from spending three hours of each nero or zero sitting at a library computer. Plus, I think most readers will find the new format easier to read and more entertaining. Since I left off in the middle of the Smokies, I will finish that segment with daily journals, and I will begin posting in the new format upon my exit (or escape) from the national park. Also, a word about pictures: after failing repeatedly to find a computer that is compatible with my camera (probably since I am a Mac user), I decided to mail my full memory card home to my parents who have agreed to upload my pictures to my Flikr account (thanks, Mom!). Once they are on Flikr, I should be able to post pictures to the blog without difficulty.
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3/15/11 Day 24 Miles: 12.9
Weather and trail conditions VERY nasty for the first half of the day. Rain, snow, sleet, and high winds. Cold, but temperatures just above freezing so the trail was an ankle-deep slushy, muddy river. After lunch the precipitation stopped, the trail was a bit drier, and we dropped in elevation enough to get out of most of the snow. Still not sure how far Guido Blanco and J.T. Hill are behind us. Staying at Cosby Knob Shelter with Face, Delaware Dave, Treebeard, and Stormsong. Got a fire going. It feels nice after some of the nastiest weather of the trip. Leaving the Smokies tomorrow!!! It really is BEAUTIFUL here, but conditions on the trail have been rough, and it will be nice to get away from the crowds and snow and back onto some solid ground where we can push mileage. The Smokies have been a big landmark in the distance since the start of the trail. Now that they're almost done, one thing is looming in my mind: Virginia. Almost exactly halfway there. Heading into hostel tomorrow. Looking forward to some real food and dry socks (my feet have been soaking wet all day for six straight days). Honestly, I don't really care that much about taking a shower. I stopped caring about being dirty a while back. I just want food. Rationing food takes a lot of will power - most thru-hikers I have talked to agree that at any given time they could open their food bag and keep eating till there is nothing left. You really never stop being hungry out here. Have I mentioned that yet? I am HUNGRY!!!
3/16/11 Day 25 Miles: 10.4
Quick, easy day today. Did last 8 miles to Davenport Gap rd which marks the end of the 72 A.T. miles inside Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I am very happy to be out and check them off the list. We then continued 2.4 miles to Standing Bear Farm hiker hostel. Needed food after crossing the Smokies without resupply, plus I heard good things about the hostel. so I decided to stay the night and head back out in the morning. I am aiming to be in Hot Springs (where my bounce box is waiting) by early morning of the 19th (P.O. is open 8:30-10:30 AM on Saturday). I hope to nero and update the blog there if the library is open. At hostel: Face, Guido and Hill (did 14 + 18 milers to catch up), Treebeard, Stormsong, Delaware Dave, Cosmic John, Victus, Space Cowboy, and Young-Un (met the last three at a shelter a few nights ago). I feel like everyone is really starting to bond. We are even sharing food! Woah! This is a big deal for thru-hikers, who usually guard their food bags like a bear guards her cubs. Everyone has many of the same acquaintances and experiences. News is passed up and down the trail through fellow hikers, hostel operators, and shelter registers. Life on the trail is becoming more and more fun everyday. It is hard to find fresh produce/healthy food here. For dinner I ate a 9-piece chicken tenders meal, fries, a biscuit, a microwave chimichanga, a banana, a large bag of chips with Tabasco sauce, oreos with peanut butter, and a slice of pizza. I washed my socks on a traditional washboard. Picked up a copy of The Fellowship of the Ring at the free book exchange here; I'm looking forward to reading it for the first time in ten years.
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After staying the night at Standing Bear Farm, the whole group woke up early for a quick three-day hike into Hot Springs, where most of us were planning to take a nero. We started out the morning right: everyone pitched in some money for food, and Stormsong
The next day was much of the same - beautiful weather, beautiful hiking. I learned that instant grits are disgusting. We camped that night three miles outside of Hot Springs with the intent of reaching town early the next morning. That night was probably the worst twelve hour period of my entire life. I woke up at 12:30 in the morning with the most painful stomach cramps of my entire life. It felt like my entire abdomen was caught in an ever-tightening vise. Eventually the pain became so severe that I resorted to sticking my hand down my throat to induce vomiting. I did that twice in an hour and a half or so without relief before I began vomiting and dry heaving uncontrollably, which lasted for the rest of the night. To make things worse, the cramps were coupled with severe shifting hot and cold spells: within minutes, I went from burning hot to shivering cold and back again. Since I was vomiting so frequently and was too weak to keep crawling in and out of my tent repeatedly, I spent the majority of the night lying on the ground in the fetal position out in the woods next to a pile of my own puke. It was bad. And if that wasn't bad enough, it started raining on me while I was lying out in the woods. I wanted to wait until sunrise to head into town, but at 5:30 I couldn't wait any longer. Delaware Dave insisted on hiking with me into town, and he even carried a few of my heaviest items to make the hike easier. By the light of his headlamp and my micro LED that I held in my mouth (I had inconveniently left my headlamp in the shelter the previous night), we hiked slowly through the dark - me stopping when necessary to throw up - until we finally reached Hot Springs in the meager light of the early morning. I sat outside the medical clinic until it opened. They weren't sure exactly what was wrong, but they gave me two bags of IV fluids to replace what I had lost and a shot in the butt to keep me from vomiting. I stayed there until noon. At some point while I was at the clinic (the shot they gave me knocked me out pretty well), Victus, Space Cowboy, and Young-Un stopped by to see me. They had heard through the grapevine that I was sick and wanted to see how I was doing before hitting the trail that afternoon. This was quite touching to me, as we had only seen each other on two previous occasions. It was just one more example of the strong bond that thru-hikers share. We look out for each other. After leaving the clinic, I checked into the Sunnybank Inn, located in a beautiful historic Victorian house built in 1875. For my fellow musicologists out there: this was the very house in which Cecil Sharpe (in 1916) recorded over sixty songs sung by Mrs. Jane Gentry, many of which were included in his English Folk Songs of the Southern Appalachians. The shot and IV fluids helped immensely, and I continued to improve for the remainder of the day, but I decided to take an additional zero day in town to fully recover. Face, Guido, Hill, Treebeard, and Stormsong pushed on after one night in town, but Delaware Dave really enjoyed the Inn and decided to stick around for an extra night.
Monday, March 21, 2011
On-Trail Update No. 2
2/26/11 Day 7 Miles: 9.5Relatively short day but felt like toughest so far. I can tell my legs are tired since I am slipping and tripping more than usual. Tomorrow's nero will come at the perfect time. I'm still hiking with Face, Guido Blanco, and J.T. Hill. We ran into two hog hunters from "No-Colina" w/ pit bulls right on the trail. They use the pit bulls to hold the hog down while they slit its throat with a knife. Dogs get gutted and killed on a regular basis when people use them to hunt like this, and I honestly don't know how it is still legal. These guys' dogs were in pretty bad shape. We also ran into two scout troops on the trail. knees hurting pretty bad, swelling worse than ever. Climbed Kelly's Knob today, 1,000-foot elevation gain in under a mile, the toughest climb for me so far (probably as much mental as physical since we are so close to our first town visit). I think lots of people out west underestimate how big these mountains are. The Southern Appalachians are FOR REAL, people. Staying tonight at Deep Gap Shelter, leaving a short 3.5-mile hike into Hiawassee tomorrow. Temperature dropped below freezing for the first time last night.
2/27/11 Day 8 Miles: 3.5
Woke up early and headed into Hiawassee to stay at the Blueberry Patch hiker hostel. Owners Gary and Lennie Poteat are wonderful people who open their home to tired and hungry hikers out of the goodness of their hearts. There is no fee to stay at the hostel - you are free to either leave a donation or to work for your stay. The hostel had a box of old clothes for wearing while ours were in the laundry, so we went into town looking... interesting, to say the least. I was wearing camouflage pants about ten sizes too big held up with parachute cord and a red t-shirt two sizes too small with a picture of a train on it. J.T. Hill was wearing a pair of black jean cutoff shorts (held up w/ parachute cord) that looked like the legs were gnawed off by a raccoon. Face and Guido looked like Eastern European and Italian mobsters, respectively. We hitched a ride into town where we absolutely demolished the China Buffet AYCE (all you can eat, a favorite term among A.T. hikers). We then hit up Dairy Queen for blizzards and the grocery store for resupply. I have given up on wearing contacts on this trip; it is just too difficult to keep your hands clean when putting them in/taking them out, and I have heard some horror stories about nasty eye infections on the trail. I also mailed home my sunglasses. I iced my knees tonight at the hostel, but I am not sure how they will hold up. They are swollen pretty bad, and the package with my refill of anti-inflammatories has not arrived yet (I will have to have it forwarded to Fontana Dam). Also, the doctor refused to give me a brace for my left knee since I only saw him for pain in my right knee. This is beyond frustrating. I had my first shower in eight days and my first clean clothes in twelve days. The Face summed it up when he said, "I feel like a human being again." I can't wait to sleep in a bed tonight, even though it is technically just a wooden bunk with egg-crate foam on top. Headed back out tomorrow morning. Some pretty bad weather forecasted for the next few day: thunderstorms, 30-60 mph winds, large hail and heavy rain, possible tornadoes.
2/28/11 Day 9 Miles: 4.5
Got a late start, had to hitch back into Hiawassee to go to the post office (closed yesterday - Sunday). Sent my bounce box ahead to Fontana Dam. Breakfast at the Blueberry Patch was AMAZING: pancakes with blueberry sauce, eggs, sausage, hashbrowns, biscuits with sawmill gravy, coffee and orange juice. Hit trail at 12:15 and decided to stop early at the Plumorchard Gap Shelter to ride out the worst of the storm. Heavy rain, hail, lots of lightning right now. Met Coach and Professor tonight, both are trying to finish their thru in four months and are averaging over twenty miles a day already. Their feet look pretty bad; I don't know if they will be able to keep up the pace at this rate.
3/01/11 Day 10 Miles: 12.2
NORTH CAROLINA!!! We reached our second state at around 10:15 this morning. It was awesome; checkpoints like this make you feel like you are really making progress. The climb out of Bly Gap (the GA/NC border) was insane, so steep that I almost had to drop my poles and start using my hands. It was almost like a big "Welcome to North Carolina, suckers!" Got started early, around 8:15 AM. Starting to become more streamlined and efficient setting up and tearing down camp. Staying at Standing Indian Mountain shelter tonight. Beautiful weather today. Built a HUGE campfire tonight with a local named Keith. My appetite is continuing to increase - I am starting to eat enormous amounts of food without ever feeling full. I am going to have to start making more room in my pack for food. I have also stopped noticing how bad I smell for the most part. I feel like I stink the worst for the first day or two after a shower, but then I either stop noticing or just stop caring (although to non-hikers I'm sure that my stench is immediately apparent). Tonight is supposed to be the coldest night so far. I have two small blisters, one on the front of each 2nd toe, but neither is serious or even particularly painful.
3/02/11 Day 11 Miles: 11.3
Cold morning, slept in a bit. Started hiking around 9:30. We were in no hurry today, so we just took our time. On the trail, you are almost never in a rush to get to any particular place - you are just walking. Took a short side trail to the summit of Standing Indian Mountain, the tallest mountain in the area with a beautiful view.. On top I got out my iPod for the first time and listened to a piece by Native American composer and flautist Douglas Spotted Eagle; it provided the perfect soundtrack for thinking about the Cherokee who once lived here. It was one of the most powerful moments of my trip so far. Now that we are in our second state, the scenery is gradually beginning to change: there is more mountain laurel and rhododendron here, and we are also starting to see our first pine trees. The trail is not as well-maintained north of the state line: lots of blowdowns crossing the trail, and many of the blazes are faded and difficult to see. I zone out a lot while hiking; it is a lot like driving on the highway. You're thoughts are not focused on staying on the trail (or road), so you just allow your mind to drift wherever it likes. I think about lost of things: I replay movies and books in my head, think or sing songs in rhythm with my hiking pace, think about the past, the present, the future. I feel absolutely NO STRESS while on the trail. All that really matters is eating, finding water, staying healthy, and finding a good place to camp. It is wonderful. We are tenting at Betty Creek Gap tonight. Total trip miles so far (including approach trail): 104.3 miles. This is already the longest trip I've ever taken by far and I am still less than 5% done. There is a small and pleasant creek a few hundred yards from our campsite, and I sat there alone for twenty minutes or so just watching and listening to the water. I like to imagine where I would hike if I were a brook trout. My feet hurt all the time from the constant pounding, but this is something that every thru-hiker experiences. Pain is simply an unavoidable reality on the trail. I am still in great spirits.
3/03/11 Day 12 8.4
Could have easily made it into Franklin today, but took it easy because I didn't want to spent any money on lodging after being in Hiawassee so recently. Climbed Albert Mountain today and it was quick but absolutely insane - an elevation gain of 500 feet in three-tenths of one mile. I had to put my poles down and climb with my hands at several points. The 360-degree view at the top was incredible, though. I was bonking before lunch today (bonking refers to the lack of energy as your body runs out of fuel. It makes you feel like one of those wind-up toys that needs to be rewound). You really begin to appreciate out here that food = fuel. Even a quick energy bar makes a huge difference. Staying at the Rock Gap shelter tonight. Took a side trail after reaching the shelter to see the second-largest poplar in the United States. With a circumference of 27 feet, it was easily the biggest tree I have ever seen in person. My left knee was the worst it has ever been today, and I walked with a bad limp the last mile or so to the shelter. Supposed to be cold again tonight with lows in the mid-twenties.
3/04/11 Day 13 Miles: 4.7
Hiked 3.8 miles to Franklin to resupply today. The guys at Outdoor 76 outfitters were amazing: they picked us up at the trail, drove us to their outfitter in town, drove us to the restaurant and grocery store, and drove us back to the trail - all for free. They are very intent on helping hikers and I will recommend them to everyone I meet. Ate ridiculous quantities of food at the Shonie's AYCE buffet: fried chicken, fried fish, mashed potatoes and gravy, green beans, corn, cornbread, shortbread cake with fruit and whipped cream. Then went to DQ for a second dessert. I am amazed at how much I can eat now without feeling full; when I stop eating, it's usually either because I've run out of time or because I've just gotten tired of eating. After hanging around town for a bit too long, we hiked out 0.9 miles to a tent site, carrying a 12-pack of Yeungling beer to enjoy at camp. It rained on us for most of the day and it is supposed to continue for the next several days. It looks like our stretch of amazing weather is about to end. Apart from the knees, I'm feeling good physically, and I will try to start picking up the pace soon. I wanted to make sure to avoid injury by giving my body time to acclimate to all-day and everyday hiking. The saying is true that the only way to get in shape for a thru-hike is to do a thru-hike. A few hours at the gym everyday is simply not going to cut it. It feels like the "Gypsy Caravan" (a term coined by I'm not sure who to describe the group of me, Face, Guido, and J.T.) is beginning to bond more closely than before. We are all excited about reaching the Smokies, which will be coming up in about a week. I might try to drop a bit a few more unnecessary items from my pack in Fontana Dam.
3/05/11 Day 14 Miles: 10.1
Woke up to rain this morning, packed up and left camp around 8:30. It hasn't stopped raining for a second all day long. I feel like we have finally been "initiated" as A.T. thru-hikers: I have now set up camp in the rain, torn down camp in the rain, and hiked all day in the rain. Rain makes EVERYTHING more difficult; even otherwise simple tasks like eating lunch become logistical nightmares as you try to keep everything as dry as possible. Even so, I was in my highest spirits of the trip for most of the day, but the rain began to wear on me by the end of the hike. There is a common saying on the trail that "nothing is waterproof on the A.T.," and that is proving to be true. Although I was wearing my raingear all day, I was soaking wet by the time I reached Wayah Bald Shelter at 1:30. Some water also got through my "waterproof" pack cover and my "waterproof" pack, so I will have to start using a trash bag as a pack liner on rainy days. I still feel fresh, and I am anxiously awaiting some better weather so that I can start upping my daily mileage. The rain is pouring outside as I am writing this, and I am very happy to be sitting in a shelter right now. I reached the first two balds (unique mountains with treeless tops that are common around the Smokies) of the trip today, but there were no views to enjoy due to the heavy fog. Met three local day hikers on the trail today with a friendly golden retriever that jumped up on me and tore two holes in my rain jacket which I will have to patch up with duct tape. Stayed in shelter tonight with the Caravan plus J.C., a very friendly retired English fellow who was born in India, educated in England and Switzerland, and now resides in Louisiana when he is not traveling around the world and hiking the A.T.
3/06/11 Day 15 Miles: 10.6
Rained all night last night, woke up this morning to a snowstorm. Putting on a wardrobe of soaking wet clothing is not fun. Snowed, rained, and sleeted alternatively for most of the day. To a certain extent, though, weather doesn't really matter to a thru-hiker - after all, it's not like you're going to wait for the next sunny weekend to do your hike. You just keep walking. Met White Fang this morning, a thru-hiker who is otherwise studying to be a personal trainer at the University of Georgia. Super nice guy. The temperature plummeted into the low to mid-twenties in the early afternoon. The good thing about snow is that it doesn't get you as wet as rain when it is falling. Rain is worse while it is falling, but snow is worse once it is on the ground. I can't remember ever seeing nonstop precipitation for two straight days. I summited Wesser Bald in the afternoon, but visibility was only thirty feet or so - no views again. It's kind of cool hiking through such dense fog, though; since you can't see anything in front or behind you, it feels like you are hiking from nowhere and going into nowhere. The forecast said it was supposed to clear up this afternoon but it never did. I passed through a burned area in the early afternoon, and the fog seemed to make all the colors - blacks, greens, oranges, browns, and yellows all covered in frost - seem all the more vibrant. Several miles of the trail were overtaken by springs and runoff, which made hiking literally like walking up a creek. In some places the water was so deep that you could have literally filled your water bottle in the middle of the trail. Staying at the Wesser Bald Shelter tonight with the Caravan plus J.C. and White Fang. The rain finally ceased in the early evening, and there was a good supply of dry wood under the shelter, so we were able to get a fire going to dry out some of our clothes. I bought some portable speakers for $20 at the outfitter in Franklin (a half-pound of shameless luxury), and I used them tonight to introduce my fellow hikers to Townes Van Zandt, Miles Davis' Bitches Brew, John Prine, and Old Crow Medicine Show.
3/07/11 Day 16 Miles: 5.7
Last night was the coldest night on the trail by far. When I woke up my socks, shoes, bandanas, pant legs, and two of my water bottles (the ones I didn't put in my sleeping bag with me) were frozen solid. Hiked a short day into the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC), will spend the night at their hiker hostel and take the rest of the day to dry out all my wet gear. Saw the sun this morning for the first time in four days. Enjoyed some high-elevation ridge walking today where the trail followed a narrow ridge with steep dropoffs on either side. It was clear up high, but the fog was still settled lower down, making the tops of the tallest peaks look like islands in a sea of clouds. I came to a gorgeous view at the perfect time, and it was one of my favorite experiences of the entire trip so far. Although I was eager to get to the NOC to dry out, I lingered at that spot for a long time. Such places are hard to pull yourself away from, but as a thru-hiker I know that hundreds more equally beautiful places await me. What a wonderful feeling. I reached the NOC around midday. Had a burger, fries, and icecream at the restaurant, set out my stuff to dry, washed my clothes, and took an exceedingly long shower. I have never felt so clean. Face, J.T., Guido, White Fang, and I then hitched a ride into Bryson City for dinner and resupply. We bought some Fat Tire and Dogfish Head 60-Minute IPA and brought it back to the hostel to enjoy. Spirits seem high all around. White Fang is pushing to reach Fontata Dam one day ahead of us, but I hope we meet up again at some point in the future. We are all looking to finish in the same time frame, so a reunion is a definite possibility. Since hikers all move at different paces and stop at different towns, a lot of leap-frogging occurs on the trail. Between that, the shelter registers, and stories from other hikers, you begin to get a pretty good idea of who the hikers are around you.
3/08/11 Day 17 Miles: 10.5
Woke up at the NOC, had an enormous breakfast of bacon, eggs, homefries, grits, biscuits with gravy, sweet potato pancakes, and coffee. Hit the trail around 10:00. Could make Fontana by Wednesday night but wouldn't make it in time to resupply at grocery store and don't want to spend money on another night in town so soon. Tenting at Locust Cove Gap, will make Fontana by Thursday morning. Big climb out of the Nantahala Gorge today - over 3,300 feet in 7 miles. Felt very strong and energized today. A few good meals and a night indoors make all the difference. Also, I listened to my iPod while hiking for the first time today and it was almost like aural adrenaline. I flew up the climb, feeling the best I have physically felt on the entire trip. Summited my first bald in clear weather: Cheoah bald, with great views to the southwest. White Fang pushed ahead, trying to reach Fontana ASAP for new sleeping bag (had been using an old 30-degree bag that was not cutting it in the cold weather). J.C. decided to stay an extra night at the NOC to zero. It started raining tonight around 7:00, and it is supposed to continue all night, all day tomorrow and possibly the next day before clearing up for a few days. I am crossing my fingers for good weather to start the Smokies!
3/09/11 Day 18 Miles: 11.6
It rained hard all last night, and the downpour didn't slow until around 2:00 PM today when it finally and suddenly stopped. Guido has been picking up flood warnings on his portable radio and I am not surprised. It rained so hard that I was soaked to the bone in less than twenty minutes despite wearing my raingear all day. We all were. The term "waterproof" does not exist out here; being wet is simply a part of life on the A.T. We camped with some spring breakers yesterday. They were nice enough guys, but the presence of spring breakers gives us a sense of foreboding since the Smokies might quickly become crowded. Hikers are required to stay in shelters while in the national park, and we have all heard horror stories of thru-hikers getting crowded out of Smokies shelters by crowds of drunken college students. Had lunch at Brown Fork Gap Shelter to escape the rain for a bit. staying tonight at Cable Gap Shelter. Supposed to be more rain until Friday. Face's sleeping bag got completely soaked despite being packed in a waterproof stuff sack in a waterproof backpack with a waterproof pack cover. Fortunately, it is not supposed to freeze tonight.
3/10/11 Day 19 Miles: 6.6
Ate a dry breakfast to save time and got on trail to head into town. Just as nothing stays dry here, nothing dries out here once it is wet. You can hang up wet clothes for a week, but it hardly matters, as they will be just as wet when you put them back on. The new "100% waterproof" bear bag I bought at Neel's Gap to replace my old bag that was only "water-resistant" had a pool of water in the bottom this morning. Fortunately, all my food was in ziplock bags so none of it got wet. When we arrived at Fontana Dam, we received the frustrating news that the grocery store was closed and wouldn't open for another three weeks when the tourist season began. Luckily, a really nice guy named J.P. (an employee at the Fontana Village Resort) offered to drive us to Robinsville (40 miles away) to eat dinner and resupply. Since he couldn't take us until 5:00, I spent the downtime visiting the post office and finding a computer to post a blog update. At the post office I went through my bounce box, filled my bottles of soap and water treatment, replenished my medications, and picked up my heavy gloves and anti-inflammatories (mailed by my parents). I also shipped home my baseball cap (hadn't worn it), book (hadn't read it), and most of my maps (I decided to cut out the elevation profiles and mail the rest home since that was the only thing I have been using). I had lunch at a gas station where I tried to cram the most calories into my body with the least amount of money possible: I settled on two chili-cheese hotdogs, a bag of chicharrones, a 600-calorie honey bun for 69 cents, and a powerade. In addition, my grandmother sent me some cookies in the mail, so I had about a dozen of those. Once in Robbinsville, I bought enough food to make it all the way through the Smokies without resupply - about 72 miles of trail. I still probably bought too much, so I will be eating like a king for the next week. After returning to Fontana Dam, J.P dropped us off at the trail around 8:00 PM, and we did a quick 1.1 miles in the dark and light snow to the next shelter. Hikers have dubbed it the "Fontana Hilton" since it is a huge shelter that sleeps 24 people and is located a few hundred yards from public restrooms with running water. Four or five other hikers were already asleep there when we arrived. Before we left Fontana, J.P. told us that the surrounding area has received over four and-one-half inches of rain in the past 48 hours. After hiking through all of that rain, I definitely believe it.
3/11/11 Day 20 Miles: 13.8
Today was the longest day of the trip so far and we did it through 1-2 feet of snow. Go figure. I left the Fontana shelter in the early morning, crossed Fontana dam, and entered Great Smoky Mountains National Park at around 9:00. It immediately looked like a different world. We had a few inches of snow before the Smokies, but I feel like I suddenly walked into a winter wonderland here. I'm not sure why this is; the elevation isn't any higher, and the topography doesn't look much different, but the Smokies are covered in snow while just a few short miles away the mountains are clear. Had over 2,000 feet of climbing in first three miles out of Fontana. At the top, I came upon the first good view in the Smokies, and just as I turned the corner to see the view the sun came out for the first time in four days. It happened as if on cue. For the first half of the day I postholed through someone else's footprints. At lunch I passed a few other hikers. They seemed pleased to let me pass - it was my turn to break trail. Breaking trail through snowdrifts - often up to two feet deep - is much more difficult than following in someone else's footsteps, and even that is much harder than hiking on solid ground. The snow takes a lot out of you. However, there is also something fun about breaking trail, almost like being the first skiier to cut through fresh powder. I had a big goofy grin on my face for most of the day. It is bone-chillingly cold right now and is supposed to remain below freezing all night, but it is supposed to warm up a bit at some point tomorrow. Another long day ahead. Staying at Russell Field Shelter tonight (hikers are required to stay at shelters in the Smokies).
3/12/11 Day 21 Miles: 9.2
It froze last night, and when I woke up this morning my socks were frozen stiff like boards. I had to wear a clean, dry pair because I couldn't get them on my feet. My shoes were also frozen solid, and I had to work them with my hands for about five minutes to make them malleable enough to allow me to shove my feet inside them. Today was the toughest day of the trip so far. It took 6.5 hours to do 9.2 miles (that is slow). The trail featured lots of big, steep climbs and descents today, and all of them were covered in a foot or more of snow. By the afternoon, the sun had melted some of the snow so that the trail turned into a big slippery river of water, mud, and slush. Staying tonight at Derrick Knob Shelter. The park requires that hikers stay in shelters each night, but they are not spaced out well - they are either 2 miles or 15 miles apart with not much in between. The rest of the Caravan went on to Siler's Bald Shelter (another 5.5 miles), but it was getting late and I did not want to hike in the dark. I'm a morning person - I'd rather wake up at 5:30 AM and make up the distance then. Big day tomorrow. I hiked a lot with a section hiker from Austin today (trailname Lucky). I made a fire tonight at the shelter tonight to dry out our socks, and as a thank you she made me hot chocolate. Meeting other hikers is part of what makes the A.T. so special. Hikers here all share a common bond. Really, it's like we are one big family (cliche, I know, but true). I have resigned myself to the fact that it is literally impossible to carry enough food to keep muself from being hungry all the time. Hungry, wet, tired, smelly, sore - all are unavoidable aspects of an A.T. hiker's daily life.
3/13/11 Day 22 Miles: 13.2
Big day of milestones today: I completed my 200th A.T. mile, I bagged my 3rd state (Tennessee), and I reached the highest point on the entire trail, Clingman's Dome (6,643 feet). I felt AWESOME today, completely opposite from yesterday. It was my best physical day of trip despite being one of the toughest. I woke up before sunrise, added an extra outmeal packet to my breakfast (up to 5 packets per meal now), and hit the trail at 7:18, just before sunrise. I reached Siler's Bald Shelter before the other guys left and hiked with them for much of the day. The snow/slush didn't seem as bad today, but the going was still pretty rough and strenuous. Heavy fog rolled in just as I reached the summit of Clingman's Dome, so I didn't get any views there. Oh well, there will be other views tomorrow, and the next day, and the next... Saw lots of bear tracks on the trail today. Supposed to start raining tonight and continue for the next three days. I hope it doesn't slow us down much; I want to try to make it through the Smokies as quickly as possible. Apparently daylight savings time started today, but it doesn't really matter much out here. Regardless of the time on the clock, hikers get up when the sun rises and go to bed when it sets. It's pretty nice, really. I used my new portable speakers to introduce everyone at the shelter to Ravi Shankar tonight.
3/14/11 Day 23 Miles: 14.9
Raining when I woke up. Supposed to rain all day, so I wore my sweaty rainsuit all day, but not a drop fell on us. I'll take it. Got down to some lower elevations today and saw the ground for the first time in the Smokies. About half of today's hike was on solid(ish) earth and the rest was on snow. We descended to Newfound Gap and crossed the road that leads to Gatlinburg (a super touristy town near the park boundary). It was kind of bizarre seeing so many people all of the sudden. Even all the towns we have been through have been relatively quiet. I'm sure all the tourists thought it was equally bizarre seeing me - sweaty, covered in mud, rain suit patched all over with duct tape, with a dirty bandana wrapped around my head. After about a week on the trail, you completely cease to care about how you look and how you smell. Good weather today allowed me to push on to Peck's Corner Shelter, Face is with me. Word reached us on the trail that Guido and J.T. Hill decided to hitch into Gatlinburg for some real food. We met up with Stormsong and Treebeard at the shelter tonight who we haven't seen since Hiawassee. They were a few days ahead of us but got forced off the trail in the Smokies due to bad weather (80 mph winds and chest-high snowdrifts). Also met Delaware Dave tonight, super cool guy, very energetic, talkative. Full bottle of Jim Beam left at the shelter tonight, some of my first trail magic of the trip (trail magic refers to a tradition in which non-thru-hikers, referred to as trail angels, do nice and unsolicited things for thru-hikers. Trail magic often comes in the form of food and drink left on the trail). Great view today at Charlie's Bunyon, one of best views of trip so far. Another full shelter tonight (same as last night). Starting to see more and more spring breakers with each passing day. Delaware Dave had a good idea for getting more calories: he eats tubs of icing with a spoon. He told us about a small, thin thru-hiker he met who had to resort to eating sticks of butter to keep from losing too much weight.
2/27/11 Day 8 Miles: 3.5
Woke up early and headed into Hiawassee to stay at the Blueberry Patch hiker hostel. Owners Gary and Lennie Poteat are wonderful people who open their home to tired and hungry hikers out of the goodness of their hearts. There is no fee to stay at the hostel - you are free to either leave a donation or to work for your stay. The hostel had a box of old clothes for wearing while ours were in the laundry, so we went into town looking... interesting, to say the least. I was wearing camouflage pants about ten sizes too big held up with parachute cord and a red t-shirt two sizes too small with a picture of a train on it. J.T. Hill was wearing a pair of black jean cutoff shorts (held up w/ parachute cord) that looked like the legs were gnawed off by a raccoon. Face and Guido looked like Eastern European and Italian mobsters, respectively. We hitched a ride into town where we absolutely demolished the China Buffet AYCE (all you can eat, a favorite term among A.T. hikers). We then hit up Dairy Queen for blizzards and the grocery store for resupply. I have given up on wearing contacts on this trip; it is just too difficult to keep your hands clean when putting them in/taking them out, and I have heard some horror stories about nasty eye infections on the trail. I also mailed home my sunglasses. I iced my knees tonight at the hostel, but I am not sure how they will hold up. They are swollen pretty bad, and the package with my refill of anti-inflammatories has not arrived yet (I will have to have it forwarded to Fontana Dam). Also, the doctor refused to give me a brace for my left knee since I only saw him for pain in my right knee. This is beyond frustrating. I had my first shower in eight days and my first clean clothes in twelve days. The Face summed it up when he said, "I feel like a human being again." I can't wait to sleep in a bed tonight, even though it is technically just a wooden bunk with egg-crate foam on top. Headed back out tomorrow morning. Some pretty bad weather forecasted for the next few day: thunderstorms, 30-60 mph winds, large hail and heavy rain, possible tornadoes.
2/28/11 Day 9 Miles: 4.5
Got a late start, had to hitch back into Hiawassee to go to the post office (closed yesterday - Sunday). Sent my bounce box ahead to Fontana Dam. Breakfast at the Blueberry Patch was AMAZING: pancakes with blueberry sauce, eggs, sausage, hashbrowns, biscuits with sawmill gravy, coffee and orange juice. Hit trail at 12:15 and decided to stop early at the Plumorchard Gap Shelter to ride out the worst of the storm. Heavy rain, hail, lots of lightning right now. Met Coach and Professor tonight, both are trying to finish their thru in four months and are averaging over twenty miles a day already. Their feet look pretty bad; I don't know if they will be able to keep up the pace at this rate.
3/01/11 Day 10 Miles: 12.2
NORTH CAROLINA!!! We reached our second state at around 10:15 this morning. It was awesome; checkpoints like this make you feel like you are really making progress. The climb out of Bly Gap (the GA/NC border) was insane, so steep that I almost had to drop my poles and start using my hands. It was almost like a big "Welcome to North Carolina, suckers!" Got started early, around 8:15 AM. Starting to become more streamlined and efficient setting up and tearing down camp. Staying at Standing Indian Mountain shelter tonight. Beautiful weather today. Built a HUGE campfire tonight with a local named Keith. My appetite is continuing to increase - I am starting to eat enormous amounts of food without ever feeling full. I am going to have to start making more room in my pack for food. I have also stopped noticing how bad I smell for the most part. I feel like I stink the worst for the first day or two after a shower, but then I either stop noticing or just stop caring (although to non-hikers I'm sure that my stench is immediately apparent). Tonight is supposed to be the coldest night so far. I have two small blisters, one on the front of each 2nd toe, but neither is serious or even particularly painful.
3/02/11 Day 11 Miles: 11.3
Cold morning, slept in a bit. Started hiking around 9:30. We were in no hurry today, so we just took our time. On the trail, you are almost never in a rush to get to any particular place - you are just walking. Took a short side trail to the summit of Standing Indian Mountain, the tallest mountain in the area with a beautiful view.. On top I got out my iPod for the first time and listened to a piece by Native American composer and flautist Douglas Spotted Eagle; it provided the perfect soundtrack for thinking about the Cherokee who once lived here. It was one of the most powerful moments of my trip so far. Now that we are in our second state, the scenery is gradually beginning to change: there is more mountain laurel and rhododendron here, and we are also starting to see our first pine trees. The trail is not as well-maintained north of the state line: lots of blowdowns crossing the trail, and many of the blazes are faded and difficult to see. I zone out a lot while hiking; it is a lot like driving on the highway. You're thoughts are not focused on staying on the trail (or road), so you just allow your mind to drift wherever it likes. I think about lost of things: I replay movies and books in my head, think or sing songs in rhythm with my hiking pace, think about the past, the present, the future. I feel absolutely NO STRESS while on the trail. All that really matters is eating, finding water, staying healthy, and finding a good place to camp. It is wonderful. We are tenting at Betty Creek Gap tonight. Total trip miles so far (including approach trail): 104.3 miles. This is already the longest trip I've ever taken by far and I am still less than 5% done. There is a small and pleasant creek a few hundred yards from our campsite, and I sat there alone for twenty minutes or so just watching and listening to the water. I like to imagine where I would hike if I were a brook trout. My feet hurt all the time from the constant pounding, but this is something that every thru-hiker experiences. Pain is simply an unavoidable reality on the trail. I am still in great spirits.
3/03/11 Day 12 8.4
Could have easily made it into Franklin today, but took it easy because I didn't want to spent any money on lodging after being in Hiawassee so recently. Climbed Albert Mountain today and it was quick but absolutely insane - an elevation gain of 500 feet in three-tenths of one mile. I had to put my poles down and climb with my hands at several points. The 360-degree view at the top was incredible, though. I was bonking before lunch today (bonking refers to the lack of energy as your body runs out of fuel. It makes you feel like one of those wind-up toys that needs to be rewound). You really begin to appreciate out here that food = fuel. Even a quick energy bar makes a huge difference. Staying at the Rock Gap shelter tonight. Took a side trail after reaching the shelter to see the second-largest poplar in the United States. With a circumference of 27 feet, it was easily the biggest tree I have ever seen in person. My left knee was the worst it has ever been today, and I walked with a bad limp the last mile or so to the shelter. Supposed to be cold again tonight with lows in the mid-twenties.
3/04/11 Day 13 Miles: 4.7
Hiked 3.8 miles to Franklin to resupply today. The guys at Outdoor 76 outfitters were amazing: they picked us up at the trail, drove us to their outfitter in town, drove us to the restaurant and grocery store, and drove us back to the trail - all for free. They are very intent on helping hikers and I will recommend them to everyone I meet. Ate ridiculous quantities of food at the Shonie's AYCE buffet: fried chicken, fried fish, mashed potatoes and gravy, green beans, corn, cornbread, shortbread cake with fruit and whipped cream. Then went to DQ for a second dessert. I am amazed at how much I can eat now without feeling full; when I stop eating, it's usually either because I've run out of time or because I've just gotten tired of eating. After hanging around town for a bit too long, we hiked out 0.9 miles to a tent site, carrying a 12-pack of Yeungling beer to enjoy at camp. It rained on us for most of the day and it is supposed to continue for the next several days. It looks like our stretch of amazing weather is about to end. Apart from the knees, I'm feeling good physically, and I will try to start picking up the pace soon. I wanted to make sure to avoid injury by giving my body time to acclimate to all-day and everyday hiking. The saying is true that the only way to get in shape for a thru-hike is to do a thru-hike. A few hours at the gym everyday is simply not going to cut it. It feels like the "Gypsy Caravan" (a term coined by I'm not sure who to describe the group of me, Face, Guido, and J.T.) is beginning to bond more closely than before. We are all excited about reaching the Smokies, which will be coming up in about a week. I might try to drop a bit a few more unnecessary items from my pack in Fontana Dam.
3/05/11 Day 14 Miles: 10.1
Woke up to rain this morning, packed up and left camp around 8:30. It hasn't stopped raining for a second all day long. I feel like we have finally been "initiated" as A.T. thru-hikers: I have now set up camp in the rain, torn down camp in the rain, and hiked all day in the rain. Rain makes EVERYTHING more difficult; even otherwise simple tasks like eating lunch become logistical nightmares as you try to keep everything as dry as possible. Even so, I was in my highest spirits of the trip for most of the day, but the rain began to wear on me by the end of the hike. There is a common saying on the trail that "nothing is waterproof on the A.T.," and that is proving to be true. Although I was wearing my raingear all day, I was soaking wet by the time I reached Wayah Bald Shelter at 1:30. Some water also got through my "waterproof" pack cover and my "waterproof" pack, so I will have to start using a trash bag as a pack liner on rainy days. I still feel fresh, and I am anxiously awaiting some better weather so that I can start upping my daily mileage. The rain is pouring outside as I am writing this, and I am very happy to be sitting in a shelter right now. I reached the first two balds (unique mountains with treeless tops that are common around the Smokies) of the trip today, but there were no views to enjoy due to the heavy fog. Met three local day hikers on the trail today with a friendly golden retriever that jumped up on me and tore two holes in my rain jacket which I will have to patch up with duct tape. Stayed in shelter tonight with the Caravan plus J.C., a very friendly retired English fellow who was born in India, educated in England and Switzerland, and now resides in Louisiana when he is not traveling around the world and hiking the A.T.
3/06/11 Day 15 Miles: 10.6
Rained all night last night, woke up this morning to a snowstorm. Putting on a wardrobe of soaking wet clothing is not fun. Snowed, rained, and sleeted alternatively for most of the day. To a certain extent, though, weather doesn't really matter to a thru-hiker - after all, it's not like you're going to wait for the next sunny weekend to do your hike. You just keep walking. Met White Fang this morning, a thru-hiker who is otherwise studying to be a personal trainer at the University of Georgia. Super nice guy. The temperature plummeted into the low to mid-twenties in the early afternoon. The good thing about snow is that it doesn't get you as wet as rain when it is falling. Rain is worse while it is falling, but snow is worse once it is on the ground. I can't remember ever seeing nonstop precipitation for two straight days. I summited Wesser Bald in the afternoon, but visibility was only thirty feet or so - no views again. It's kind of cool hiking through such dense fog, though; since you can't see anything in front or behind you, it feels like you are hiking from nowhere and going into nowhere. The forecast said it was supposed to clear up this afternoon but it never did. I passed through a burned area in the early afternoon, and the fog seemed to make all the colors - blacks, greens, oranges, browns, and yellows all covered in frost - seem all the more vibrant. Several miles of the trail were overtaken by springs and runoff, which made hiking literally like walking up a creek. In some places the water was so deep that you could have literally filled your water bottle in the middle of the trail. Staying at the Wesser Bald Shelter tonight with the Caravan plus J.C. and White Fang. The rain finally ceased in the early evening, and there was a good supply of dry wood under the shelter, so we were able to get a fire going to dry out some of our clothes. I bought some portable speakers for $20 at the outfitter in Franklin (a half-pound of shameless luxury), and I used them tonight to introduce my fellow hikers to Townes Van Zandt, Miles Davis' Bitches Brew, John Prine, and Old Crow Medicine Show.
3/07/11 Day 16 Miles: 5.7
Last night was the coldest night on the trail by far. When I woke up my socks, shoes, bandanas, pant legs, and two of my water bottles (the ones I didn't put in my sleeping bag with me) were frozen solid. Hiked a short day into the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC), will spend the night at their hiker hostel and take the rest of the day to dry out all my wet gear. Saw the sun this morning for the first time in four days. Enjoyed some high-elevation ridge walking today where the trail followed a narrow ridge with steep dropoffs on either side. It was clear up high, but the fog was still settled lower down, making the tops of the tallest peaks look like islands in a sea of clouds. I came to a gorgeous view at the perfect time, and it was one of my favorite experiences of the entire trip so far. Although I was eager to get to the NOC to dry out, I lingered at that spot for a long time. Such places are hard to pull yourself away from, but as a thru-hiker I know that hundreds more equally beautiful places await me. What a wonderful feeling. I reached the NOC around midday. Had a burger, fries, and icecream at the restaurant, set out my stuff to dry, washed my clothes, and took an exceedingly long shower. I have never felt so clean. Face, J.T., Guido, White Fang, and I then hitched a ride into Bryson City for dinner and resupply. We bought some Fat Tire and Dogfish Head 60-Minute IPA and brought it back to the hostel to enjoy. Spirits seem high all around. White Fang is pushing to reach Fontata Dam one day ahead of us, but I hope we meet up again at some point in the future. We are all looking to finish in the same time frame, so a reunion is a definite possibility. Since hikers all move at different paces and stop at different towns, a lot of leap-frogging occurs on the trail. Between that, the shelter registers, and stories from other hikers, you begin to get a pretty good idea of who the hikers are around you.
3/08/11 Day 17 Miles: 10.5
Woke up at the NOC, had an enormous breakfast of bacon, eggs, homefries, grits, biscuits with gravy, sweet potato pancakes, and coffee. Hit the trail around 10:00. Could make Fontana by Wednesday night but wouldn't make it in time to resupply at grocery store and don't want to spend money on another night in town so soon. Tenting at Locust Cove Gap, will make Fontana by Thursday morning. Big climb out of the Nantahala Gorge today - over 3,300 feet in 7 miles. Felt very strong and energized today. A few good meals and a night indoors make all the difference. Also, I listened to my iPod while hiking for the first time today and it was almost like aural adrenaline. I flew up the climb, feeling the best I have physically felt on the entire trip. Summited my first bald in clear weather: Cheoah bald, with great views to the southwest. White Fang pushed ahead, trying to reach Fontana ASAP for new sleeping bag (had been using an old 30-degree bag that was not cutting it in the cold weather). J.C. decided to stay an extra night at the NOC to zero. It started raining tonight around 7:00, and it is supposed to continue all night, all day tomorrow and possibly the next day before clearing up for a few days. I am crossing my fingers for good weather to start the Smokies!
3/09/11 Day 18 Miles: 11.6
It rained hard all last night, and the downpour didn't slow until around 2:00 PM today when it finally and suddenly stopped. Guido has been picking up flood warnings on his portable radio and I am not surprised. It rained so hard that I was soaked to the bone in less than twenty minutes despite wearing my raingear all day. We all were. The term "waterproof" does not exist out here; being wet is simply a part of life on the A.T. We camped with some spring breakers yesterday. They were nice enough guys, but the presence of spring breakers gives us a sense of foreboding since the Smokies might quickly become crowded. Hikers are required to stay in shelters while in the national park, and we have all heard horror stories of thru-hikers getting crowded out of Smokies shelters by crowds of drunken college students. Had lunch at Brown Fork Gap Shelter to escape the rain for a bit. staying tonight at Cable Gap Shelter. Supposed to be more rain until Friday. Face's sleeping bag got completely soaked despite being packed in a waterproof stuff sack in a waterproof backpack with a waterproof pack cover. Fortunately, it is not supposed to freeze tonight.
3/10/11 Day 19 Miles: 6.6
Ate a dry breakfast to save time and got on trail to head into town. Just as nothing stays dry here, nothing dries out here once it is wet. You can hang up wet clothes for a week, but it hardly matters, as they will be just as wet when you put them back on. The new "100% waterproof" bear bag I bought at Neel's Gap to replace my old bag that was only "water-resistant" had a pool of water in the bottom this morning. Fortunately, all my food was in ziplock bags so none of it got wet. When we arrived at Fontana Dam, we received the frustrating news that the grocery store was closed and wouldn't open for another three weeks when the tourist season began. Luckily, a really nice guy named J.P. (an employee at the Fontana Village Resort) offered to drive us to Robinsville (40 miles away) to eat dinner and resupply. Since he couldn't take us until 5:00, I spent the downtime visiting the post office and finding a computer to post a blog update. At the post office I went through my bounce box, filled my bottles of soap and water treatment, replenished my medications, and picked up my heavy gloves and anti-inflammatories (mailed by my parents). I also shipped home my baseball cap (hadn't worn it), book (hadn't read it), and most of my maps (I decided to cut out the elevation profiles and mail the rest home since that was the only thing I have been using). I had lunch at a gas station where I tried to cram the most calories into my body with the least amount of money possible: I settled on two chili-cheese hotdogs, a bag of chicharrones, a 600-calorie honey bun for 69 cents, and a powerade. In addition, my grandmother sent me some cookies in the mail, so I had about a dozen of those. Once in Robbinsville, I bought enough food to make it all the way through the Smokies without resupply - about 72 miles of trail. I still probably bought too much, so I will be eating like a king for the next week. After returning to Fontana Dam, J.P dropped us off at the trail around 8:00 PM, and we did a quick 1.1 miles in the dark and light snow to the next shelter. Hikers have dubbed it the "Fontana Hilton" since it is a huge shelter that sleeps 24 people and is located a few hundred yards from public restrooms with running water. Four or five other hikers were already asleep there when we arrived. Before we left Fontana, J.P. told us that the surrounding area has received over four and-one-half inches of rain in the past 48 hours. After hiking through all of that rain, I definitely believe it.
3/11/11 Day 20 Miles: 13.8
Today was the longest day of the trip so far and we did it through 1-2 feet of snow. Go figure. I left the Fontana shelter in the early morning, crossed Fontana dam, and entered Great Smoky Mountains National Park at around 9:00. It immediately looked like a different world. We had a few inches of snow before the Smokies, but I feel like I suddenly walked into a winter wonderland here. I'm not sure why this is; the elevation isn't any higher, and the topography doesn't look much different, but the Smokies are covered in snow while just a few short miles away the mountains are clear. Had over 2,000 feet of climbing in first three miles out of Fontana. At the top, I came upon the first good view in the Smokies, and just as I turned the corner to see the view the sun came out for the first time in four days. It happened as if on cue. For the first half of the day I postholed through someone else's footprints. At lunch I passed a few other hikers. They seemed pleased to let me pass - it was my turn to break trail. Breaking trail through snowdrifts - often up to two feet deep - is much more difficult than following in someone else's footsteps, and even that is much harder than hiking on solid ground. The snow takes a lot out of you. However, there is also something fun about breaking trail, almost like being the first skiier to cut through fresh powder. I had a big goofy grin on my face for most of the day. It is bone-chillingly cold right now and is supposed to remain below freezing all night, but it is supposed to warm up a bit at some point tomorrow. Another long day ahead. Staying at Russell Field Shelter tonight (hikers are required to stay at shelters in the Smokies).
3/12/11 Day 21 Miles: 9.2
It froze last night, and when I woke up this morning my socks were frozen stiff like boards. I had to wear a clean, dry pair because I couldn't get them on my feet. My shoes were also frozen solid, and I had to work them with my hands for about five minutes to make them malleable enough to allow me to shove my feet inside them. Today was the toughest day of the trip so far. It took 6.5 hours to do 9.2 miles (that is slow). The trail featured lots of big, steep climbs and descents today, and all of them were covered in a foot or more of snow. By the afternoon, the sun had melted some of the snow so that the trail turned into a big slippery river of water, mud, and slush. Staying tonight at Derrick Knob Shelter. The park requires that hikers stay in shelters each night, but they are not spaced out well - they are either 2 miles or 15 miles apart with not much in between. The rest of the Caravan went on to Siler's Bald Shelter (another 5.5 miles), but it was getting late and I did not want to hike in the dark. I'm a morning person - I'd rather wake up at 5:30 AM and make up the distance then. Big day tomorrow. I hiked a lot with a section hiker from Austin today (trailname Lucky). I made a fire tonight at the shelter tonight to dry out our socks, and as a thank you she made me hot chocolate. Meeting other hikers is part of what makes the A.T. so special. Hikers here all share a common bond. Really, it's like we are one big family (cliche, I know, but true). I have resigned myself to the fact that it is literally impossible to carry enough food to keep muself from being hungry all the time. Hungry, wet, tired, smelly, sore - all are unavoidable aspects of an A.T. hiker's daily life.
3/13/11 Day 22 Miles: 13.2
Big day of milestones today: I completed my 200th A.T. mile, I bagged my 3rd state (Tennessee), and I reached the highest point on the entire trail, Clingman's Dome (6,643 feet). I felt AWESOME today, completely opposite from yesterday. It was my best physical day of trip despite being one of the toughest. I woke up before sunrise, added an extra outmeal packet to my breakfast (up to 5 packets per meal now), and hit the trail at 7:18, just before sunrise. I reached Siler's Bald Shelter before the other guys left and hiked with them for much of the day. The snow/slush didn't seem as bad today, but the going was still pretty rough and strenuous. Heavy fog rolled in just as I reached the summit of Clingman's Dome, so I didn't get any views there. Oh well, there will be other views tomorrow, and the next day, and the next... Saw lots of bear tracks on the trail today. Supposed to start raining tonight and continue for the next three days. I hope it doesn't slow us down much; I want to try to make it through the Smokies as quickly as possible. Apparently daylight savings time started today, but it doesn't really matter much out here. Regardless of the time on the clock, hikers get up when the sun rises and go to bed when it sets. It's pretty nice, really. I used my new portable speakers to introduce everyone at the shelter to Ravi Shankar tonight.
3/14/11 Day 23 Miles: 14.9
Raining when I woke up. Supposed to rain all day, so I wore my sweaty rainsuit all day, but not a drop fell on us. I'll take it. Got down to some lower elevations today and saw the ground for the first time in the Smokies. About half of today's hike was on solid(ish) earth and the rest was on snow. We descended to Newfound Gap and crossed the road that leads to Gatlinburg (a super touristy town near the park boundary). It was kind of bizarre seeing so many people all of the sudden. Even all the towns we have been through have been relatively quiet. I'm sure all the tourists thought it was equally bizarre seeing me - sweaty, covered in mud, rain suit patched all over with duct tape, with a dirty bandana wrapped around my head. After about a week on the trail, you completely cease to care about how you look and how you smell. Good weather today allowed me to push on to Peck's Corner Shelter, Face is with me. Word reached us on the trail that Guido and J.T. Hill decided to hitch into Gatlinburg for some real food. We met up with Stormsong and Treebeard at the shelter tonight who we haven't seen since Hiawassee. They were a few days ahead of us but got forced off the trail in the Smokies due to bad weather (80 mph winds and chest-high snowdrifts). Also met Delaware Dave tonight, super cool guy, very energetic, talkative. Full bottle of Jim Beam left at the shelter tonight, some of my first trail magic of the trip (trail magic refers to a tradition in which non-thru-hikers, referred to as trail angels, do nice and unsolicited things for thru-hikers. Trail magic often comes in the form of food and drink left on the trail). Great view today at Charlie's Bunyon, one of best views of trip so far. Another full shelter tonight (same as last night). Starting to see more and more spring breakers with each passing day. Delaware Dave had a good idea for getting more calories: he eats tubs of icing with a spoon. He told us about a small, thin thru-hiker he met who had to resort to eating sticks of butter to keep from losing too much weight.
Thursday, March 10, 2011
On-Trail Update No. 1
Day: 19 A.T. Miles: 162.6 Total Trip Miles: 171.4
Greetings from the Appalachian Trail! I am currently in Fontana Dam, North Carolina, about one mile from the southern border of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. This is the first access to internet I have had on the trip. I've obviously got a lot to write, and I don't have a lot of time to write it, so I'm going to have to move fast. Since I am not spending a night here but will be continuing up the trail this evening, I might not have time to get the blog completely up-to-date, but I will post as much as time allows. The following journal entries were written in shorthand each night on the trail. They were written in a sort of stream-of-consciousness format while I thought about each day's events, and that format has not been changed here. Because my time on the internet is so limited, I am having to suppress my urge to proof-read and edit everything I write. I have taken tons of photos and half a dozen or so videos so far, but unfortunately I cannot upload them today (this computer has restricted user access settings and it won't let me upload any files). I promise I will get those up as soon as possible. Overall, it has been a great trip so far. I spent four days in Florida and Georgia with my friend, Brent Thomas, before hitting the trail on Feb. 20.
_____________________________
2/20/11 Day 1 Miles: 2.8 (plus 8.8-mile Approach Trail)
Brent dropped me off at Amicalola Falls State Park and I started the Approach Trail at about 9:30 AM. I was hiker #51 to sign the registry (although many do not sign). The trail begins on top of Springer Mountain in the park, and no vehicular access is available to the summit, so hikers must hike 8.8 miles from the visitors center to the start of the trail. My heart was pounding like crazy when I stood under the stone arch at the beginning of the approach trail. After a year of waiting, I can't believe I am actually here. It is all very surreal. On top of Springer I met Phil and Steve, the first thru-hikers I have met on the trip. Both are students at UConn, so we did some bantering about whose women's basketball team will win the national championship. We all three kept on until Stover Creek Shelter where we met Brian and Eric, two more NOBOs (northbound thru-hikers). Gave Eric his trail name tonight: The Man With Half a Face (derived from a joke about internet stalkers). Most A.T. thru-hikers go by a trail name of some sort. While most are given their names on the trail, some opt to choose them on their own. I love this tradition. I am tent camping tonight. I saw smoke to the east while on Springer. Pretty windy today. There was smoke haze and smell in camp near sundown with some ash settling on my tent. I will stay alert for now. Some minor knee pain today but nothing serious. Good weather, positive spirits today.
2/21/11 Day 2 Miles: 12.3
Staying tonight at Gooch Mountain Shelter, first night staying in shelter. Pretty tough day today, lots of big PUDs (pointless ups and downs, the ones that lead to no good views and seem to have no purpose other than making the trail more difficult). Must have climbed and descended 4 or 5 different mountains. This trail does not seem to believe in switchbacks, it just goes straight up and down each mountain without attempting to avoid them. Great weather, good spirits all day. Mostly hiked by myself and sang a lot. Met Triton, Hawk, and Joker at the shelter this evening. They all seem like great guys. Triton gave me my trail name tonight: Sensei. I got it when I was teaching him and some others the PCT method of bear-bag hanging. It's a great name, and I think it fits my personality: I am quiet and contemplative at times, I love to teach, and I consider music and fly fishing to be spiritual pursuits. Sounds like "Sensei" worthy to me. Phil also got his trail name tonight: Guido Blanco (because he is a blond and very light-skinned Italian American). These mountains are beautiful: dead oak (I think) forests up high, green and cool and water-filled near creeks down low with lots of rhododendron. Knee pain on all downhills, but nothing too bad so far. Felt good on uphills.
2/22/11 Day 3 Miles: 12.4
Camping alone at Slaughter Creek Campsite. In tent, first night alone on A.T. Will probably go to sleep around 7:30 since it gets dark so early (completely dark by 7:00). Haven't seen any other thru-hikers all day, have only seen a few day hikers (maybe 4?). Picked up a lot of trash on the trail, it really annoys me. Some with a cold must think the world is their trashcan. Met two cool locals, showed me Atlanta from a good overlook (70 miles away!) Tomorrow: Blood Mountain, resupply at Neel's Gap, make it an easy day. Left knee hurts now, both knees with moderate pain on downhills and little to none on everything else. Looks like another windy night. Not the best pitch on the tent, I hope it holds up. Wind blowing fallen leaves, making my imagination go crazy thinking every noise sounds like a bear. If you don't think you're afraid of the dark, you probably haven't been out in the woods alone at night. I've camped alone before, but this is the first time I've camped alone without knowing where/how far the nearest person is. It makes a difference.
2/23/11 Day 4 Miles: 4.3
Just as I was sitting down to write this, Guido, J.T. Hill (Steve's new trail name) and The Face showed up in camp, I was very happy to see them, as I was starting to get lonely after two full days by myself. Took it easy on the knees today, aiming to hit Hiawassee by the morning of the 27th. Will spend the night and take a nero ("near zero," few A.T. miles hiked) and resupply there. Man, I can't express how happy I am to see the other guys right now. It has been one of the biggest spirit lifts I can ever remember having. If I didn't realize how much of a people person I was before, I definitely realize it now. Resupplied at Neel's Gap today, easily spent several hours at Mountain Crossings Outfitters. Had them do a shakedown of my gear but didn't change much. I replaced my "water resistant" bear bag with one that is 100% waterproof, got another dry bag for my clothes to replace broken ziplock. Also got new headlamp to replace crummy visor clip light that didn't ever want to work. Sent home running shorts. Will probably get rid of some more stuff in the next few weeks.
2/24/11 Day 5 Miles: 9.7
Supposed to T-Storm tonight, so we took it easy to stay at Low Gap Shelter to keep out of rain. Completely full in shelter with five or six more camping outside. Met up with Triton, Joker, and Hawk again around lunch, met more thru-hikers here: Rhino, Pops, China Girl and Wood Rat. Wood Rat thru-hiked in 1995 and knows a lot about the local ecology. He is a super cool guy. First day I have spent hiking with others all day long (most time hiking is spent alone). Will do about 13 tomorrow if weather permits. Sang on the trail a lot with Triton today. Also met SOBO (southbounder) today finishing up his thru (started in July). Left knee hurt pretty bad today, right knee almost no pain.
2/25/11 Day 6 Miles: 13.0
Pretty tough day today, but I feel surprisingly good. Two BIG ascents and descents today (Blue and Rocky Mountains), plus lots of rocky ankle busting sections on the trail early on. Got a bit of a late start, had a conversation this morning with Triton about bebop and the influence of Miles Davis on American popular music. Hiked alone, caught up to J.T. Hill and Guido just before lunch and Face a bit later. Tent camping tonight at Cheese Factory site (there used to be a dairy here; sadly, there was no longer any cheese factory). Thought today about what Triton said yesterday: the difference between will power and willingness. Will power assumes that a person can mentally overcome any obstacle, which isn't necessarily true (a person can't hike on two broken legs, for example). Willingness, on the other hand, simply means a willingness to keep going. In other words, will power is more active, while willingess is a more passive acceptance of the fact that not everything is under one's control. Spent a lot of time during the day thinking about what to write in journal, but I forget most of it by the end of the day. My mind drifts in and out of autopilot while hiking, kind of like when driving on the highway: feel on trail, ankles, trail as a whole, weather, will I make it or not, people back home, etc... Sitting around campfire tonight, I thought: I can't believe this will be my life for the next five months. Hiawassee on Sunday. I've never been so excited about eating at a restaurant in my entire life. About 80% of the conversations on the trail have to do with food. It just never leaves your mind. Both knees hurt pretty bad today, should have a left knee brace waiting in town. I have pretty much given up on personal hygiene except for brushing my teeth and washing my feet when a good water source is available.
Greetings from the Appalachian Trail! I am currently in Fontana Dam, North Carolina, about one mile from the southern border of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. This is the first access to internet I have had on the trip. I've obviously got a lot to write, and I don't have a lot of time to write it, so I'm going to have to move fast. Since I am not spending a night here but will be continuing up the trail this evening, I might not have time to get the blog completely up-to-date, but I will post as much as time allows. The following journal entries were written in shorthand each night on the trail. They were written in a sort of stream-of-consciousness format while I thought about each day's events, and that format has not been changed here. Because my time on the internet is so limited, I am having to suppress my urge to proof-read and edit everything I write. I have taken tons of photos and half a dozen or so videos so far, but unfortunately I cannot upload them today (this computer has restricted user access settings and it won't let me upload any files). I promise I will get those up as soon as possible. Overall, it has been a great trip so far. I spent four days in Florida and Georgia with my friend, Brent Thomas, before hitting the trail on Feb. 20.
_____________________________
2/20/11 Day 1 Miles: 2.8 (plus 8.8-mile Approach Trail)
Brent dropped me off at Amicalola Falls State Park and I started the Approach Trail at about 9:30 AM. I was hiker #51 to sign the registry (although many do not sign). The trail begins on top of Springer Mountain in the park, and no vehicular access is available to the summit, so hikers must hike 8.8 miles from the visitors center to the start of the trail. My heart was pounding like crazy when I stood under the stone arch at the beginning of the approach trail. After a year of waiting, I can't believe I am actually here. It is all very surreal. On top of Springer I met Phil and Steve, the first thru-hikers I have met on the trip. Both are students at UConn, so we did some bantering about whose women's basketball team will win the national championship. We all three kept on until Stover Creek Shelter where we met Brian and Eric, two more NOBOs (northbound thru-hikers). Gave Eric his trail name tonight: The Man With Half a Face (derived from a joke about internet stalkers). Most A.T. thru-hikers go by a trail name of some sort. While most are given their names on the trail, some opt to choose them on their own. I love this tradition. I am tent camping tonight. I saw smoke to the east while on Springer. Pretty windy today. There was smoke haze and smell in camp near sundown with some ash settling on my tent. I will stay alert for now. Some minor knee pain today but nothing serious. Good weather, positive spirits today.
2/21/11 Day 2 Miles: 12.3
Staying tonight at Gooch Mountain Shelter, first night staying in shelter. Pretty tough day today, lots of big PUDs (pointless ups and downs, the ones that lead to no good views and seem to have no purpose other than making the trail more difficult). Must have climbed and descended 4 or 5 different mountains. This trail does not seem to believe in switchbacks, it just goes straight up and down each mountain without attempting to avoid them. Great weather, good spirits all day. Mostly hiked by myself and sang a lot. Met Triton, Hawk, and Joker at the shelter this evening. They all seem like great guys. Triton gave me my trail name tonight: Sensei. I got it when I was teaching him and some others the PCT method of bear-bag hanging. It's a great name, and I think it fits my personality: I am quiet and contemplative at times, I love to teach, and I consider music and fly fishing to be spiritual pursuits. Sounds like "Sensei" worthy to me. Phil also got his trail name tonight: Guido Blanco (because he is a blond and very light-skinned Italian American). These mountains are beautiful: dead oak (I think) forests up high, green and cool and water-filled near creeks down low with lots of rhododendron. Knee pain on all downhills, but nothing too bad so far. Felt good on uphills.
2/22/11 Day 3 Miles: 12.4
Camping alone at Slaughter Creek Campsite. In tent, first night alone on A.T. Will probably go to sleep around 7:30 since it gets dark so early (completely dark by 7:00). Haven't seen any other thru-hikers all day, have only seen a few day hikers (maybe 4?). Picked up a lot of trash on the trail, it really annoys me. Some with a cold must think the world is their trashcan. Met two cool locals, showed me Atlanta from a good overlook (70 miles away!) Tomorrow: Blood Mountain, resupply at Neel's Gap, make it an easy day. Left knee hurts now, both knees with moderate pain on downhills and little to none on everything else. Looks like another windy night. Not the best pitch on the tent, I hope it holds up. Wind blowing fallen leaves, making my imagination go crazy thinking every noise sounds like a bear. If you don't think you're afraid of the dark, you probably haven't been out in the woods alone at night. I've camped alone before, but this is the first time I've camped alone without knowing where/how far the nearest person is. It makes a difference.
2/23/11 Day 4 Miles: 4.3
Just as I was sitting down to write this, Guido, J.T. Hill (Steve's new trail name) and The Face showed up in camp, I was very happy to see them, as I was starting to get lonely after two full days by myself. Took it easy on the knees today, aiming to hit Hiawassee by the morning of the 27th. Will spend the night and take a nero ("near zero," few A.T. miles hiked) and resupply there. Man, I can't express how happy I am to see the other guys right now. It has been one of the biggest spirit lifts I can ever remember having. If I didn't realize how much of a people person I was before, I definitely realize it now. Resupplied at Neel's Gap today, easily spent several hours at Mountain Crossings Outfitters. Had them do a shakedown of my gear but didn't change much. I replaced my "water resistant" bear bag with one that is 100% waterproof, got another dry bag for my clothes to replace broken ziplock. Also got new headlamp to replace crummy visor clip light that didn't ever want to work. Sent home running shorts. Will probably get rid of some more stuff in the next few weeks.
2/24/11 Day 5 Miles: 9.7
Supposed to T-Storm tonight, so we took it easy to stay at Low Gap Shelter to keep out of rain. Completely full in shelter with five or six more camping outside. Met up with Triton, Joker, and Hawk again around lunch, met more thru-hikers here: Rhino, Pops, China Girl and Wood Rat. Wood Rat thru-hiked in 1995 and knows a lot about the local ecology. He is a super cool guy. First day I have spent hiking with others all day long (most time hiking is spent alone). Will do about 13 tomorrow if weather permits. Sang on the trail a lot with Triton today. Also met SOBO (southbounder) today finishing up his thru (started in July). Left knee hurt pretty bad today, right knee almost no pain.
2/25/11 Day 6 Miles: 13.0
Pretty tough day today, but I feel surprisingly good. Two BIG ascents and descents today (Blue and Rocky Mountains), plus lots of rocky ankle busting sections on the trail early on. Got a bit of a late start, had a conversation this morning with Triton about bebop and the influence of Miles Davis on American popular music. Hiked alone, caught up to J.T. Hill and Guido just before lunch and Face a bit later. Tent camping tonight at Cheese Factory site (there used to be a dairy here; sadly, there was no longer any cheese factory). Thought today about what Triton said yesterday: the difference between will power and willingness. Will power assumes that a person can mentally overcome any obstacle, which isn't necessarily true (a person can't hike on two broken legs, for example). Willingness, on the other hand, simply means a willingness to keep going. In other words, will power is more active, while willingess is a more passive acceptance of the fact that not everything is under one's control. Spent a lot of time during the day thinking about what to write in journal, but I forget most of it by the end of the day. My mind drifts in and out of autopilot while hiking, kind of like when driving on the highway: feel on trail, ankles, trail as a whole, weather, will I make it or not, people back home, etc... Sitting around campfire tonight, I thought: I can't believe this will be my life for the next five months. Hiawassee on Sunday. I've never been so excited about eating at a restaurant in my entire life. About 80% of the conversations on the trail have to do with food. It just never leaves your mind. Both knees hurt pretty bad today, should have a left knee brace waiting in town. I have pretty much given up on personal hygiene except for brushing my teeth and washing my feet when a good water source is available.
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
Gear List
(Days until hiking commences: 5)
Bear with me here. This post is going to be LONG.
When gearing up for a long-distance hike, a person can quickly become overwhelmed by the sheer volume of outdoor equipment on the market today. There are internal frame packs, external frame packs, and frameless packs; there are freestanding tents, non-freestanding tents, and partially-freestanding tents; there are single-walled tents, double-walled tents, tarps, tarp-tents, ultralight hammocks, and bivy sacks; there are white gas stoves, denatured alcohol stoves, isobutane-propane canister stoves, esbit stoves, and wood burning stoves; there are pump-operated filters, gravity filters, water purifiers, ultraviolet water sterilizers, and numerous chemical water treatments. But this is only the beginning. Imagine, if you will, trying to sort through a never-ending horde of synthetic materials - polyester, mylar, capilene, pertex, goretex, tyvek, polyurethane, polopropylene, cuben fiber, spinnaker fiber, silicon, nylon, silicon-impregnated nylon, ripstop nylon, cordura nylon, 30-denier ballistic airlight calendered nylon (you get the idea) - as you desperately attempt to understand the most appropriate applications for each. Truly, it's enough to make even the most ardent of gear lovers run for the hills.
In short, there are quite literally thousands of decisions the aspiring thru-hiker must make while gearing up for a long-distance trek; you see, when you are carrying all your possessions on your back for six months, each item becomes part of a constant balancing act between considerations of weight, comfort, and safety. As for me, the majority of my previous backpacking experience has been done with old, heavy, hand-me-down equipment, so coming into this I knew I had a substantial amount of work ahead of me. Over the past five months, I have spent countless hours - I mean COUNTLESS hours - wading through the disorienting waters of the outdoor retail industry. Sometimes, after a long period of serious contemplation over a single piece of gear - say, what density of closed-cell foam to use for my sleeping pad - I would finally come to what I thought was a confidently informed decision, only to open a new door and have yet another array of pertinent and necessary considerations appear before me. On some days, it was asking enough just to keep my head above water (at this point, I would like to mention how appreciative I am of the patience my friends and family have shown as I have endlessly contemplated such matters out loud, often without provocation). Fortunately, with time I have gradually been able to familiarize myself with most of the ins and outs of modern backpacking gear. What follows is a list of everything I will be taking on my thru-hike - every strap, dropper bottle, and mini ziplock baggie has been accounted for. In addition, I have attempted to provide readers with an idea (in extremely abridged form) of why I chose each particular piece of gear. As always, I am more than happy to answer any further questions that anyone might have. Total pack weights are listed at the bottom of this post.
Pack
Pack: REI Ridgeline 65L (4 lbs)
This is a little heavier than I wanted to go, but this pack fits me better than anything else I tried on. Most of the packs that fit the length of my torso were too large around the hips, but the Ridgeline features a removable hipbelt, so I was able to pair the medium pack with the small hipbelt. When it comes to packs and shoes - arguably your two most important pieces of gear on any long hike - a good fit is paramount. As experienced hikers are fond of saying, the right fit is always a better choice than the so-called "right" piece of gear.
Pack Cover: REI duck's back 80L (5.1 oz)
Polyurethane, 100% waterproof. One size bigger than the pack so that it fits over my sleeping pad, which I strap to the outside of my pack.
Shelter
Tent: Six Moons Designs Lunar Solo (1 lb 10.9 oz)
Most modern tents are constructed using a "double-walled" design consisting of two parts: the main body of the tent, which is constructed primarily out of mesh, and the detachable rainfly. While this design does much to eliminate condensation, it tends to produce a much heavier tent than single-walled tents of similar size. My tent is a single-walled tarp-tent. Tarp-tents employ in their construction the advantages of both tarps - the ultimate in lightweight - and tents, which provide full protection from insects and the elements. The Lunar Solo is essentially a 360-degree tarp with a hanging bug net and bathtub floor connected to the ceiling. It is not freestanding, meaning it must be staked out during use, but it sets up with relative ease. This tent sets up using a single trekking pole, a design feature that eliminates the need to carry additional tent poles (one of the principal tenets of lightweight backpacking is finding multiple uses for a single item). While all single-walled tents will by nature have at least minor issues with condensation, this tent is designed to be set up with 5 to 6 inches of clearance between the walls and the ground, a feature that helps increase air circulation significantly. Of course, the ultimate advantage of this tent is its lightweight; at well under two pounds, you won't find many lighter shelters that offer complete weather and insect protection.
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| Six Moons Designs Lunar Solo. |
Tyvek footprint (3.8 oz)
This is great stuff - lightweight, flexible, water-resistant (not waterproof), and extremely durable and tear resistant. Placing this under my tent will help protect the tent floor from abrasion.
(8) Easton aluminum tent stakes (4 oz)
My tent sets up with six, but the other two can be used as backups or for tying out additional guy-points.
10 ft of parachute cord for additional guylines (0.7 oz)
My tent has two additional guy-points that, when used, help maximize interior space and provide additional structural support in heavy winds. Thanks to my shakedown in the Guadalupe Mountains, I know that my tent will stay upright in sustained winds of at least 40 mph.
Sleep System
A word about materials:
When the subject of insulation arises, the question is always asked: "which is better, down or synthetic?" While new generations of synthetic insulation are significantly improved from their predecessors, the fact is that down is still lighter, packs smaller, and provides superior insulating power. However, this natural miracle fiber does have one downside (no pun intended): unlike synthetics, down loses virtually all its insulating ability when wet. The answer to the question, then, is that down is the superior insulation - as long as you can keep it dry. If the insulation is going to be exposed to water, synthetics are the clearly the better choice. The majority of A.T. hikers prefer to use a down-filled sleeping bag since it will not be regularly exposed to the elements (most people keep their down bag in a waterproof sack at the bottom of their pack), but opt use synthetic insulation in their jackets, which obviously will be seeing a lot more weather.
One last word about down: the lofting ability of down is measured in a rating system referred to as "fill power." Fill power is essentially the total area that one ounce of down fills: for example, one ounce of 600-fill down will fill 600 cubic inches of space. Down is generally rated anywhere between 150-fill and 900-fill. The higher the number, the lighter, warmer per-ounce, and more compressible the down.
EMS Mountain Lite 20-degree w/ stuff sack (2 lbs 3 oz)
750-fill goose down, packs down to the size of a football. Water-resistant Pertex nylon shell helps to protect the down from condensation. The interior is spacious enough to allow me to wear additional clothing inside on extremely chilly nights. The stuff sack can be filled with clothing to be used as a pillow.
Therm-a-Rest Ridgerest (12.6 oz)
Non-inflatable, closed-cell foam. While not as comfortable or compressible as inflatable mattresses, closed-cell foam is cheaper, lighter weight, and provides superior insulating power from the ground, which is the single most important purpose of any sleeping pad. You see, the ability of any kind of puffy insulation (down or synthetic) to keep you warm rests in its lofting ability. When you lie down in a sleeping bag, the insulation underneath your body becomes compressed which renders it practically useless (in fact, many light and ultralight bags are made without any insulation on the bottom). A sleeping pad should not be viewed as an optional luxury item, then, but rather as a necessary piece of gear that helps keep you warm on the cold ground. When the weather warms up, I will probably cut a few feet off the bottom of my pad so that it ends just past my knees, making it easier to pack and saving me a few more ounces.
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| Sub-zero test of sleep system. |
mylar emergency blanket, cut to pad dimensions (0.7 oz)
Many hikers carry two sleeping pads during the winter. Because I did not want to carry or pay for this additional piece of gear, I got the idea to buy an emergency blanket (the shiny ones) and cut it down to fit the dimensions of my sleeping pad. When the nighttime temperature is extra chilly, I can place this extra layer under my sleeping pad to help reflect more of my body heat back to me. For less than an ounce of weight and a packed size that fits easily into the palm of my hand, it works pretty darn well.
Thanks to last week's nationwide winter storm, I have been able to successfully test my total sleep system (including tent) to an air temperature of around 0-degrees and a wind chill of about -10.
Cooking System
MSR Pocket Rocket (3 oz)
Small canister stove. This is one hell of a stove, so much so that MSR has not changed its design for several decades. Virtually maintenance-free, it boils a liter of water in around 3.5 minutes. The fuel output is EXTREMELY adjustable; on low, the flame is barely a flicker, while on high it looks rather more like something you could launch into space. Still, I might switch to an alcohol stove partway up the trail; they are cheap to use, can be made out of a coke can, and weight less than an ounce.
4-oz. fuel canister (6.7 oz)
One canister should last me 6-7 days. While isobutane/propane-blended fuel is super fast to cook with, it is heavy and fairly expensive compared to denatured alcohol - another reason I will probably switch at some point down the road.
GSI Pinnacle Soloist (1.1L aluminum pot, insulated mug, straining lid, carrying case) (10.2 oz)
1.1L aluminum pot with folding handle, 14-oz insulated mug/bowl, straining/sipping lid that fits both pot and mug, carrying case that can be used as water basin. When packed up, I can fit my entire cooking system inside.
plastic spork (0.2 oz)
mini Bic lighter (0.45 oz)
(2) 0.5-oz dropper bottles of Dr. Bronners (1.5 oz)
Organic, fair-trade, fully biodegradable liquid soap. This stuff is AMAZING; it can be used for washing dishes, hands, hair, body, and pretty much anything else that needs cleaning. Plus, it's super concentrated, so a little bit goes a long way (I can wash my hands with three or four drops).
Hydration System
Aquamira drops (3 oz)
Water filters are heavy and prone to malfunction; by comparison, chemical treatment is super light, maintenance-free, and extremely compact. Aquamira uses a chemical called chlorine dioxide, a safer alternative to iodine that is used in many public water treatment facilities.
extra dropper bottle for mixed solution (0.15 oz)
Since Aquamira comes in parts A and B which must be mixed for 5 minutes before adding to water, I am carrying an extra mini dropper bottle to store enough mixed solution for each day. Others have done this and it does not seem to significantly reduce the chemical's effectiveness.
(2) 1L Smartwater bottles (3 oz)
"What? You're not taking Nalgene bottles?!" Nope. An average one-liter Nalgene bottle weighs 6.2 ounces. A one-liter Smartwater bottle weighs 1.5 ounces. By carrying cheap bottles, I save over a half-pound of weight. Plus, the tall, skinny shape of these bottles makes them fit in the pockets of my pack easier. Using Aquamira will help keep them from getting nasty - the stuff would be a brutally efficient tool of chemical weaponry if we ever decided to go to war with tiny aquatic organisms - but I'll still change them out every few weeks.
2L water tote (1.5 oz)
For carrying additional water if sources are scarce. Also allows me to keep more water at camp so I don't have to make multiple trips to the water source each night.
Clothing
The North Face convertible pants (1 lb 2.4 oz)
Pants and shorts in one water-resistant package. These are pretty heavy, but I already had them and didn't want to spend money on more.
Under Armour running shorts (4.4 oz)
Patagonia capilene long underwear bottoms (6 oz)
Used mostly for sleeping. Body oils that permeate the lining of your sleeping bag will slowly compromise the lofting ability of the bag's insulation, so sleeping in clothing or using a liner is a necessity. I have opted for clothing because it can also be used for hiking on very cold days.
(2) Cabela's merino wool long-sleeve shirts (12.6 oz)
Although heavier than most synthetic fabrics, merino wool is extremely warm and moisture wicking, and it also retains its insulating ability when wet. The main reason I have chosen merino in this instance is that wool has a natural and uncanny ability to resist odor. Synthetics, by comparison, can get very nasty in a relatively short amount of time. One shirt will be used for hiking and one will be used for sleeping.
 |
| Montbell Ex Light down vest. |
Montbell Ex Light down vest and stuff sack (3.8 oz)
Because I am starting in the winter, I am taking two insulating jackets instead of one. This 900-fill down vest is extraordinarily light and compresses down to the size of a Campbell's soup can. Because it is down, it will be used as my interior insulating layer.
The North Face primaloft jacket (1 lb 4.8 oz)
This jacket is super heavy by lightweight backpacking standards, but I don't want to skimp on clothing for a February hike. Primaloft is one of the warmest and most compressible synthetic insulations available. This will definitely be shipped home when I reach the warmer climes of Virginia.
Dri Ducks rain suit (jacket and pants) (10 oz)
Polypropylene. This rain suit looks extremely dorky, but it is lightweight and extremely affordable. Anyway, I don't think the bears will be laughing at me. I will probably mail the pants home when the weather warms up.
(3) pairs Smartwool socks (7.55 oz)
Wool is the preferred sock material for most hikers due to all the above listed reasons.
 |
| Injinji liner socks. |
(3) pairs Injinji toe liner socks (2.1 oz)
Liner socks wick moisture away from your feet and help prevent blister-causing abrasion. The unique individual toed design of these liners helps to reduce blisters between toes. These just came in the mail, so I haven't had a chance to hike with them yet, but I haven't ever had a blister while wearing liner socks, so consider me a liner devotee. These are made of Coolmax polyester; I wish they made them in silk so they wouldn't stink so bad, but oh well.
REI nylon/spandex boxer shorts (3 oz)
Many thru-hikers - men and women alike - choose to go "commando" while on the trail. Opting out of underwear has the distinct advantage of promoting ventilation with the added benefit of reducing pack weight (which, of course, is constantly present in almost every thru-hiker's mind). I gave it a try, and let's just say it doesn't work for me. Three ounces is a fair price to pay to eliminate chafing.
baseball cap (3.8 oz)
My trusty Top-Notch hat looks like it has been through hell and back... several times. It has accompanied me on hunting trips, backpacking excursions, a field research trip to Guatemala, and numerous fishing trips. In other words, it has been a good travel companion and I'm certainly not leaving it behind now. It might literally fall apart on my head before I reach Maine.
balaclava (1.8 oz)
Superior to a beanie since it insulates main arteries in the neck. It can also be rolled up to serve as a beanie, so there is no need to carry both.
(2) bandanas (2 oz)
Used for washing dishes, washing myself, pre-filtering debris when filling water bottles, wiping condensation from my tent ceiling, wiping sweat from my face, wetting and wearing on my head, tying off injuries, and throwing rocks over trees as part of my bear-bagging system.
lightweight liner gloves (1.6 oz)
I have a pair of heavy ski gloves I can use if it gets extremely cold, but it really doesn't look like I am going to need them.
Footwear
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| Brooks Cascadia 5 trail runners. |
Brooks Cascadia 5 trail running shoes (1 lb 12.9 oz)
Trail runners are basically a running shoe with the more durable outer sole of a hiking boot. While many people don't consider weight to be a significant factor when choosing footwear, it really should be taken into careful consideration. Because shoes are so far from your body's center of gravity, it takes much more effort to lift a few pounds on your feet than to lift the same amount of weight on your back. The "ankle support" of traditional hiking boots is largely a myth; I actually find that I have much better overall balance and experience less foot and ankle fatigue when wearing a lighter shoe. I will probably go through at least three pairs of of these during my hike.
Cheap flip-flops (5 oz)
Some people consider camp shoes to be a luxury item while others consider them a necessity. These are the cheapest, lightest flip-flops I could find ($2.00 at Hobby Lobby), and I think my feet will thank me at the end of the day for carrying them.
Toiletries (total weight: 15.55 oz)
glasses w/ case
contacts w/ case
While relying on glasses would save a lot of weight, I really prefer to wear contacts when out and about. Wearing glasses makes me feel detached from the outside world in a way, almost as if I'm looking at my surroundings through a car window. It sounds like a pretty minor issue, but I really don't want that feeling to pervade my A.T. experience for the next six months.
spare contacts
(2) 2-oz bottles of contact solution
This equals about half the total weight of all my toiletries. I wish there was some way I could magically make this stuff lighter.
small tube sunscreen
lip balm
small hand sanitizer
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| Counting eye-dropper capacity. I now know that one 0.5-oz bottle holds 482 drops of low viscosity fluid. |
toothbrush (w/ shortened handle) & toothbrush cover
The real "gram weenies" out there cut off their toothbrush handles to save weight. I just shortened mine a bit so that it fits better into the ziplock bag.
small tube toothpaste
small mirror
Anyone who has ever dealt with an impossibly elusive eyelash on their contact lens will understand exactly why I'm carrying this. It can also be used to signal for help in case of an emergency. After several days on the trail I probably won't want to look at myself much in it. It weighs exactly one ounce.
1-quart ziplock bag for all toiletries
First Aid (total weight: 8.3 oz)
You may be beginning to notice a trend here. There is no reason to carry more of any one item than is necessary. For example, you are not going to need an entire tube of Neosporin in one two-week period (if you do, you probably shouldn't ever leave your house), so take a few individual doses instead. The same applies to bandages, medication, and just about any other consumable item you carry. Repackage everything you can. The weight of these items may seem fairly insignificant, but when packing a full pack you begin to realize that ounces quickly accumulate into pounds.
(2) ind. doses cortisone cream
(2) ind. doses neosporin
4" x 4" gauze pad
(2) regular band-aids
(2) butterfly bandages
(4) blister bandages
small roll tums
(3) mini plastic bags w/ Advil, Benadryl, Zyrtec, multivitamins, Meloxicam (anti-inflammatory), Tramadol (pain reliever)
small tube Pennsaid (topical anti-inflammatory)
Nasalcrom (for allergies)
inhaler (for mild asthma)
small Gold Bond
(2) extra mini ziplocks (for opened packages of cortisone & neosporin)
1-quart ziplock bag for all first aid
Miscellaneous
Black Diamond Ergo Cork trekking poles (1 lb 3.55 oz)
I use to look at these and think they were a pointless waste of money, but I decided to give them a try after learning that practically everyone who finishes the trail ends up buying a pair sooner or later. After using them for the first time during my shakedown, consider me the president of the trekking poles fan club. These things are simply WONDERFUL. If you've ever pressed your hand down on a scale, you will know that it is relatively easy to press down with ten or even twenty pounds of force. When you hike with trekking poles, that ten or twenty pounds is transferred from your legs to your arms with every step. This isn't just "in theory" - you can actually feel the trekking poles distributing the workout through your body as you hike. In addition to taking weight (and therefore stress) off of your legs, hiking with trekking poles also significantly improves your balance. I almost felt like I had four legs while hiking the Guadalupe Peak Trail, and those brief stumbles that sometimes occur with the onset of fatigue were completely eliminated.
Leatherman Micra multitool (1.7 oz)
Includes scissors, knife, file, can opener, bottle opener, flathead screwdriver, large and small Phillips screwdriver, and tweezers.
Bear bagging system: 40 ft parachute cord, 20L nylon food bag, mini carabiner, (3) freezerbags for food and trash (6 oz)
When hiking in bear country (the entire A.T. is in bear country), it is necessary to store food, toiletries, and all other scented items away from camp and out of the reach of bears each night. Hanging a bear bag from a tree is the lightest and most commonly-used method. There are many different bear-bagging techniques, but the PCT method is my technique of choice.
extra mini carabiner (0.1 oz)
mesh stuff sack for first aid, toiletries, electronics, cards & cash, fire kit, field repair kit (1.3 oz)
plastic bag w/ $100 cash (in twenties), driver's license, debit card, health insurance cards (0.85 oz)
map & compass (4.3 oz)
ALDHA Thru-Hiker's Companion (10.7 oz)
My guide book of choice. Provides more detailed information about the trail, notable landmarks, shelters, and water sources than maps. Most importantly, it provides what maps do not: information about the availability of services in nearby towns (laundry, post office, grocery, restaurants, lodging, outfitters, etc.).
sunglasses w/ case (1.9 oz)
digital camera w/ 2 GB memory card and extra battery (5.9 oz)
harmonica (2.3 oz)
It's going to be hard enough not being able to play sax, guitar, or bodhrán for six months. Consider this my addition to the Ten Essentials of Backpacking. A gift from my friend, Solomon.
Irish tinwhistle (1.15 oz)
See above. The whistle I'm taking conveniently breaks down into two pieces and was a gift from my friend, Michael.
digital waterproof wristwatch w/ stopwatch and timer (0.9 oz)
cell phone (for town visits) (6.8 oz)
emergency fire starter kit (waterproof matches & strike pad, dryer lint, 1/3 firestarter stick) (0.4 oz)
plastic bag w/ toilet paper & extra plastic bag for used toilet paper (0.45 oz)
visor clip light w/ extra batteries (0.7 oz)
micro LED flashlight (0.35 oz)
field repair kit (3 safety pins, 2 needles, polyester thread) (0.1 oz)
(2) extra straps (for securing sleeping pad to outside of pack) (1.2 oz)
iPod w/ headphones (7.6 oz)
Strictly a luxury item, but it can be a significant morale booster on tough days. The downside is that it weighs almost half a pound. Some people bring an iPod Shuffle or Nano, both of which are obviously much lighter in weight, but there is absolutely no way I could narrow down my music enough to fit on either one of these; plus, I don't really want to pay for one anyway. While I will probably start the trail with my iPod, I am considering leaving it in my bounce box at some point down the road. The spirit of deprivation that characterizes life on the trail is a significant part of the A.T. experience for many hikers (it sounds a bit masochistic, and it is), and going without my music for six months will surely have an influence on how I listen when I return (absence makes the ears grow fonder?).
book (starting with Lila by Robert Pirsig) (8.1 oz)
Another heavy luxury item that I am slightly hesitant to carry. Because the days are so much shorter this time of year, I will be spending a lot more time in my tent, so some form of entertainment will definitely be welcome. Still, between the iPod and the book, we are talking almost a pound of extra weight.
loose leaf notebook paper for journal (0.5 oz)
Weighs less and packs smaller than any form of miniature journal or notebook you can find.
Sharpie pen w/ duct tape & medical tape (0.5 oz)
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| Sharpie with duct tape and medical tape at weigh-in. |
knee brace (8.4 oz)
If I manage to hike for a few months without experiencing any knee pain (a long shot, I know), I'll be happily ditching this bulky half-pound.
SPOT GPS (4.1 oz)
The SPOT has no maps, no calling capability, and no keypad for typing messages. It is simply a locator beacon with a few buttons for signaling SOS in case of emergencies and for signaling my family to let them know I'm okay. 4.1 ounces is well worth some peace of mind.
Total Base Weight: 20 lbs
Includes the loaded pack with everything except food, water, and fuel.
Total Weight On Back at Beginning of Five-Day Trek: 35 lbs
Base weight plus five days of food, 2 liters of water, and one full canister of fuel. Does not include weight of clothing being worn.
Total Skin-Out Weight: 39 lbs
Everything in my possession including the clothes on my body (weight you are also carrying if you think about it).
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| Gear ready to be packed. |
_____________________________________________________________________
Bounce Box:
These are the items I will be packing in the bounce box that I will mail to myself along the trail. I will have access to them about every two weeks on average. Everything listed here fits nicely into a standard-sized shoebox.
Dr. Bronner's soap
ziplock bags (mini, medium, large)
sunscreen
Zyrtec, Benadryl, Advil, multivitamins, Tramadol (pain reliever)
Meloxicam, Pennsaid (anti-inflammatories)
contact lenses
contact solution
nail clippers
Gold Bond
duct tape and medical tape
blister pads
band-aids
cortisone & antibiotic cream
cell phone/iPod, & camera chargers
(2) extra 2-GB SD memory cards
camera USB upload cable
upcoming trail maps
spork
Aquamira
BIC lighter
loose leaf paper
bandana
razor
extra mini dropper bottles
mosquito headnet
$100 cash (in twenties)
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